Sundowner II log – 2009 update 33 – Greece to Turkey, Ionian-Aegean.

Well, here we are once again in a situation we would rather not be in but it’s all a learning curve and sometimes fate cannot be avoided. Needing to get as far east as possible we are now on the tip of mainland Greece, the last anchorage before heading south east to Turkey, it’s a bit like Lands End only sunny and instead of a lighthouse a few broken columns stand in memory of past times. The temple to Poseidon, the Greek God of the sea, was bathed in sunshine as we left early this morning full of hope and full sails only to be forced back after a mile due to the 32 knot wind and big big seas but we do have a clean boat thanks to the lightening storms but no thunder through the night. We had arrived late afternoon just before the waited for and infamous meltemi struck. The bay is a well known bolt hole and many yachts and huge motorboats arrived for shelter, it is also well known for it’s poor holding and countless boats spent hours dragging and re-anchoring before darkness fell. We were lucky as we had found Rod Heikell’s patch of sand under the chapel and after inspecting with the snorkel saw the anchor firmly hooked behind one of the many rocks around, but it was still a very long night with the huge wind funneling down the valley - it’s a big wind that whistles even if it is wet.
It has got to be said it hasn’t been a very enjoyable passage, the 206 miles to here from the comforts of Messalonghi Marina the wind, seas and other seafarers unpleasant and unsociable. It was particularly difficult trying to head eastwards out of the Patras Gulf into the Gulf of Corinth to pass under the new Rion Andirrion suspension bridge.

It was not a surprise as our friends on Tetis had been turned back previously and were told by the local fishermen that the wind never blows from the east but it still was as we tacked south then north finally radioing the controller for permission to pass under the rather impressive expanse at times at a standstill in the head wind, waves and passing motor boat wash, and once clear having to tack away north towards the land and before landing on the beach another tack took us to the castle over looking the anchorage of Navpaktos a place we had been told, by the wi-fi quiz night marina groupies back at Messalonghi, had nothing to offer. Well it was perfect shelter from the east wind, charming ashore and a nice long walk up to the hill castle and in the evening laughter and cooking smells drifted out from ashore.

But all good things come to an end and one too many boats in their herd instinct anchored too close so we set off at 5pm for an enjoyable Friday night sunset cruise, the 15 miles of flat calm sea to Trizonia the so called hippy island, it’s not which was a shame but very nice anyway, we anchored out of the way in the corner in what can only be described as a village duck pond - wonderful. You can tie up for free in the marina if you so wish, excellent small waterfront bars.

Still struggling with the weather we found safe-ish anchorages at Galaxidhi, Veresses, and Isidhourou,

before crossing the Gulf south east to the harbour of Kiato with its shops, garage and a bar below the coastguard office just 35 paces from where Sundowner was discreetly tied up.

Before departure Sazza baked a large spinach pie and the passage through the Corinth Canal was good especially as they opened up just for us and we passed through on our own, although we did disappoint them when they asked us to increase our speed to 6 knots and we told them 5 was max in fact with the tide against us we only managed 4.

As it was only midday and with limited options for anchoring we headed off into the Aegean Sea demolishing the pie on the way, after a great deal of effort and a lot of miles we finally anchored outside the harbour in the shallows off the beach on the Island of Salamis only to be blown towards the beach at 4 in the morning, luckily we were still awake after a 3am phone call from Jason having a Beaucette Marina party, which meant crossing the bay and a torchlight re-anchoring outside of a boatyard before dawn.

With the wind too strong to go ashore for fuel in the morning we set sail for the mainland and after negotiating the dozens of ships anchored and moving outside Athens discovered that it was impossible to just call in for fuel at the Alimos Marina, so just for a laugh we went in search of and found and entered the nearby empty marina built for the Athens Olympics but it is now taken over by a few moneyed folk in their super yachts whose security guards shooed us away - we only wanted water, rest and a slice of cake. Eventually after a day of motorboats, yacht racing fleets and general mayhem we anchored around a corner in Varzika watching the sunset surrounded by water skiers and the out of tune singing carrying on at an horrendous volume until 6 in the morning. At 3am the wind blew favorably, it was so tempting to set sail but it died a little so we waited until daylight at 7 and dressed Sundowner in her Sunday morning best cruising chute and drifted along the coast, anchoring at Palaia Fokaia where Dennis dinghied ashore with the German and water cans, a very helpful local drove him a few miles to a garage that was actually open on a Sunday wonderful, but his wife was less impressed with the act of sailors camaraderie. He also warned us of the coming North wind so we proceeded onto Sounion through a very rough and narrow rock infested passage between an island and the mainland.

Turkey now 200 miles to the south east of us, the prevailing Meltemi wind blowing northeast, we planned to use the wind and the Cyclades islands circle shape heading south and east in an anti- clockwise direction not having to face the wind until we started to head north around 5 o’clock when the wind should blow more northerly, also we would get to see lots of islands cos we like islands and their people.

With the waterline on the horizon through the binoculars looking less lumpy we left Sunion in the early morning this time with reefed sails and through the clouds rays of sunlight shone down on Poseidon’s temple astern, ahead huge clouds with water spouts trying to form were gathering over the island of Kea (11 o’clock) we crossed the Kea Channel and with the wind increasing Perkins was left on as with just 15 knots of wind we were doing 6 knots in rather large seas, with no choice of turning back the fear and adrenalin flowing we powered on knowing the less time on passage the less chance of being caught out again. The 24 miles to Kithnos (10 o’clock) were covered in four and a half hours and we were rewarded with one of the most beautiful anchorages imaginable in a bay behind a sand bar with a beer bar above that in the evening was made use of, we drank so much beer that we were given free ones and shots of some firewater spirit that made your sea legs disappear. Dennis even got to play with the local pussy.

Midday the next day the wind blew across the bay from the east at over 30 knots, having dragged the anchor the previous day we headed east at 2 knots into the wind for the more protected anchorage of Ormos Aporiosis just across the bay where we ploughed the sea bed sand and grass for a while and then added the Danforth anchor which set immediately and gave us peace of mind and a restful sleep. Whilst taking an early 4-30am ciggie the first chills of autumn were felt as had the water been rather chilly earlier.
With a bit of trepidation we motored out of the bay just after 10 the following morning with just a scrap of Genoa and Perkins resting we sailed down the coast in the beam wind off the land fully expecting gusts as we passed the end of the island – they never happened but only a couple of rolls were unfurled still leaving 2 reefs as we crossed over to Serifos (9 o’clock) The rolls were pulled in again as we cruised down the coast the gusts never amounting to much until we rounded the south east corner and then bang the wind hit head on but we reached the safety of Levadi town, anchoring up in the sheltered top corner of the bay. The next day with only a couple of litres of water left we up-anchored and headed for the harbour – 3 long trips with the dinghy being too much hassle. Using our Danforth from the stern we moored bows to the quay, the rope from the anchor caused a lot of concern over the next four nights as boats came too close looking for a space on the crowded quay it really needs a heavy weight to sink it but we just released it and let it drop as the numpties appeared. We had a chat to a friendly guy who was new to sailing and was chartering a boat with his family when he asked his skipper why the catamaran had not sped ahead of them the previous day he pointed out that we were reefed, prepared for the gusts and were practicing good seamanship and acting sensibly, which made us feel good. It was strange being in the company of so many other yachts and it was nice to spend time chatting on the quay and making new friends but one thing that did strike us was how everybody talked of the windy conditions but we presumed it was well known that the Greek Islands are windy having been told by our ocean traveling USA friends Peter & Julie that you must clear out of Greece before June to avoid a battering by the strong Northerly winds.

In Anemos bar Sunday and Maria supplied us with beer and internet, Sunday even kept our laptop overnight and installed all of his music after we had said how good it was - a memory stick is now on the shopping list so that we can store it all. As we were leaving the harbour we were hailed from the shore and saw Maria waving farewell as she walked her dog, which was nice.
The sea area between Serifos and Sifnos (8 o’clock) is a known wind zone but only a 15-mile trip, which we cautiously started with the now familiar doubled reefed Genoa. As confidence grew both were let out in the following wind our plan of circling the Cyclades working, we were anchored in less than 4 hours in the enclosed bay of Vathi close to the shore, a few other boats evenly spaced along the shallow ridge of the shoreline. In the beautiful setting we swam and had a relaxing walk and after dinner settled down for a peaceful night, as the night closed the wind moved around to blow straight into the entrance sending us far too close to the shore. We were unable to just anchor further off as a boat had anchored close by earlier but we hadn’t worried as there was no way the wind would blow in from the south. It took quite a while and a few failed attempts before we found a spot in the darkness that we were half happy with, the morning was welcomed when it arrived and we left late.
Time to head south and with a drop in the wind, and only making 2.5 knots under sail we motor sailed the 34-miles to the bay of Ormos-Milapotamou on the island of Ios (7 o’clock). With a flat sea maybe it was a perfect day for the cruising chute but it had been a long night and Perkins wasn’t complaining. It was nice to anchor with lots of chain in the big wide sand bottomed bay with only a few other boats for company. In the evening a guy in the Harmony bar could be heard singing some old classic songs with his acoustic guitar and a crowd singing along with the chorus each note and voice audible on Sundowner a fair distance away there also seemed to be a few United chants which wouldn’t have been surprising as the reds had played in Istanbul so a few of the lads may have stopped over on their way home. It would have been fun to go ashore and join in what seemed like a good party but we were chilled out, some German lads anchored nearby did and later we had to shine the torch on their boat to show the happy crew home.
In the morning we had to force the well dug in anchor out and had a steady, magical downwind 4-hour 15-mile sail to the volcanic crater island of Santorini (6 o’clock) a place we had long wished to visit. It was exciting passing through the beautiful entrance capped with colourful houses and then it was hard to believe that we were sailing inside a volcano.

We passed through a little apprehensively dodging the large cruise ships and fast ferries which took the shine off the experience a little and in the exit channel we had to take defensive action from fast ferries avoiding shallow patches which were not charted. Then we had a beautiful sail along the south coast passing anchorages and the manic marina - we had visions of a small shallow harbour rarely visited that we may be able to enter, tie up and catch a bus to the town at the top of the rim even though Rod says in his book it could be a problem if the wind turned to blow from the south. Many boats were motoring fast in the early afternoon to cram into the by now extended harbour as we passed we raised full sail to take us to the next island of Anafi (5 o’clock). What a mistake as when we cleared the headland we were met with a very strong wind and confused sea and even after reefing right down were heading nowhere, just battered about and then Perkins powered us away until we were in open sea that only came from one direction, onto our beam and the wind 60 degrees ahead. With Perkins resting and the sails trimmed to their maximum, full mainsail and 2 reefed Genoa, the time now 1.30pm we had 28 miles to cover before nightfall 6 and a half hours ahead at 8 0’clock meaning an average speed of over 4 knots, which we did arriving early at 7. Well pleased to have gambled knowing a Meltemi wind was due next day and we had sailed eastwards into a NNE strong wind. We laid both anchors in 2 meters of water behind the long arm of the breakwater that points from the island towards Crete 60 miles to the south.

It proved a welcome sheltered refuge for 3 nights the strong winds expected were confirmed over a beer at the quayside hotel the ferry anchoring out to sea overnight due to the fact the Captain was a ‘scaredy’. We also had a walk up to the village of Scala which was very high up and over a refreshing beer we overlooked the harbour we also managed to buy our first green vegetable for a long time in the form of a cabbage the size of a basketball which made 4 main meals – stir fried with spaghetti, lentil Sunday roast, fritters with sweet and sour sauce and of course bubble and squeak.

It was odd when the strong wind blew overhead the swell built up counteracting the wind, leaving our chain and anchor rope slack. On the previous trip we found the full main enjoyed the power increasing our speed to break the waves and we weren’t stopped or slowed as much, we also raised the small storm/staysail and with double-reefed Genoa must have looked a pretty sight as we sailed off the anchor and along the coast. In hindsight maybe we should have been a little bit more cautious as with the urge to move on we left, getting confirmation from the passing local fisherman that the wind was decreasing down to force 6 ha ha such fun!
What happened over the next 9 hour 42 mile trip can only be described as sadomasochist stupid stupid fun in a ‘I’ve lost a lot of brain cells’ kind of way we could dedicate the passage in memory of Pat Patterson the boat’s designer who used to relish such conditions, as his son Pip does now and is a testament to the superb design and build of the Heavenly Twins. Ok we did get wet but we sail without a spray hood and have the best in clothing to compensate, for the first time part of a wave did enter the cockpit from the side but it was minimal, the large splashes from the waves coming down from above were easily dealt with by standing up straight under the small bimini and steering for 8 hours with wet hands isn’t such a long time if you are concentrating also Sandra renewed her cigarette rolling skills the problem there she had to light them as well and supply a towel to dry fingers and lips. The solar panel tried to jump ship at one stage after Sandra was told that holding onto it for an hour was a waste of time and energy and when she let go the inevitable happened, but it was recovered intact and secured after a bit of bouncy bouncy Tiggerish wet deck work. Excluding gusts the wind didn’t get above force 6 thankfully but the old saying is a force 6 is a yachtsman’s gale and the seas had had days to build up and we were heading northeast in a northerly wind. We had said after the previous trip that we now do lumpy and as in the previous trip we started Perkins and dropped sails just before the corner of the island to motor around the 2 miles of headland which proved to be impossible being nearly stopped, down to 1 knot, by the headwind and sea which meant we had to unroll half the Genoa and motor tack out to sea and back a distance of 6 miles taking 2 hours and we gratefully dropped the anchors off the beach in the bay of Levadi on the island of Astipalaia (4 o’clock) where we spent 3 comfortable nights mostly on our own just the occasional yacht stopping overnight.

It was nice to be able to walk ashore and over the hill to the harbour town of Skala. With the holiday season now practically over one night we had one of the beachside bars to ourselves and were encouraged by the owner to take a new crew member in the form of a Buddy look-alike Caniche street dog that had adopted us but once aboard reality took over and Dennis rowed him back ashore and over a beer explained to him the hardships of a sea rover, it was a shame because he was a beautifully natured dog and we do miss having a four legged mate.

Just for fun we thought it would be nice to spend a night on the nearby deserted island of Kounoupaia but the anchorage proved too small and rocky, when we tried to go to the inland sea of Vathi on the north east we were forced back by the wind and eventually after 19 miles ended up in Maltezana only 3 miles from our previous anchorage, it is named after the Maltese pirates that used it as a base, with more bad weather forecast we did not want to hold up there for 5 days while the wind blew so we set off early at 7 keeping well off the rain and cloud covered south east headland, now masters of strong wind reefed sailing we had a great sail across to the island of Nisiros (3 o’clock even though it is in the Dodecanese) another 42 miles which we did in under 9 hours making an average of just about 5 knots, marvellous considering we had to reef to the bare minimum in the wind zone between Kos and Nisiros. After tying up stern-to in the harbour of Pali, Sandra overheard the conversation aboard the large Italian yacht next to us that had slowly with full sails passed us earlier. When the Captain asked who had arrived a mate replied ‘e il piccolo piccolo catamarano!’ and in conversation with us later admired our speed under reefed sails. In the morning we could see the sunrise over our destination of Turkey a whole new continent. We had some great days in great company of fellow boat crews even hiring a car to tour the beautiful island and it’s huge volcano crater.

The morning of the 30.9.09 we celebrated 10 years living aboard Sundowner by sailing to Asia Minor, the last leg eastwards from Kos to Bitez a fantastic sail in the sheltered waters so well trimmed were the sails and the constant NW force 4 wind Dennis had a wonderful sleep while Sandra helmed getting speeds of 6.5 knots and rather gallantly changing course to race a very large catamaran.