Sundowner II log – 2008 update 30 – Gaeta to Scoglitti
Sunday 1st June 2008 and we are leaving Gaeta a place full of friends and happy memories made over a period of nearly three years. So as we pass the old town and head south round the familiar headland it's hard not to choke up a little and wonder what the future holds and why you are leaving somewhere that offers so much especially as there's still the leaking hole in the pod, the dinghy is looking as if patched up after a shotgun blast and the boat in general very overweight and in need of a good clean below the waterline and various jobs and replacements undone, such is the cruisers lot, when it's time to go it's time to go and any feelings of remorse or anxiety have to be ignored and such is the pace of our trip ahead, maybe two months to maybe Malta, that there was even time to stop and clean the props in the first patch of clean sea that wasn't full of plastic bags, durex, panty liners and general human convenience. With the northern anchorages of Ischia feeling exposed to the forecast north wind we moved round to the familiar southern anchorage of Castello and spent a relaxed and thoughtful night.
Monday 2nd June 2008 - With an early start slightly delayed through a search for some rogue electrical fault as the hull seemed to be alive with static and not wanting our props to be eaten away again through electrolysis, the noise had been bothersome since we anchored. We fancied a slow pass along the Amalfi coast and halfway to Capri we had the pleasure of a couple of playful dolphins which Dennis had whistled over from a distance to starboard, this lifted the heart and should bode well for the trip or at least help reassure if things should turn for the worse or maybe they were just helping to celebrate our 5000th mile since leaving Guernsey . Crossing our previous 2006 track as we rounded Pt Campanella on the mainland (opposite Capri) we followed the Amalfi coast past 'dog island' that from the west looks like a seal pup,
then anchored outside the town of Positano, not quite outside as the front was full of buoys and a ferry terminal, we are still not sure why the area we chose was empty but the chart showed no reason not to.
Tuesday 3rd June 2008 - Salerno was next only because we had missed it in 06 but we did not feel inspired to go ashore but as we prepared to leave in the morning a yacht (Derek and Karen on Sandpiper of Brighton) stopped to say hello and were very nice and had a dog called Flotsam. We had thunder echoing over the mountain coast and the low land stretching to Agropoli fringed with sand and white breaking water. Sailing a tight course to skirt the fish farm in our path the waves made for an uncomfortable journey and as the conditions increased it was a baptism of fire after so long getting soft ashore we could hardly make out the river we had entered before. Things changed a bit later in the afternoon as the wind moved to behind us and without reefing the genoa when perhaps we could have we did a steady 6 knots and we entered Agropoli harbour. Not wanting to med moor to the wall we anchored just inside the entrance in 3 metres of water.
Everything was so much more quiet and empty than our previous visit in August and even better with the price of fuel rocketing the motor boats seemed to have slowed down in general. Feeling a bit relaxed we stayed an extra day and visited the castle during a walk in the town and even getting a take away pizza. Anchor light on, a final check of the boat before settling down for the night when from the dark corner of the harbour the white Guardia Costeria boat roars up it's engine then lights up and makes passage towards us, here we go, get the papers out or you are no longer allowed to anchor here, but no, unable to hear their shouts they draw up closer shouting “are you ok?” We shout, “pardon?” and they shout “any problems?”, “No, Grazie, Ciao” and off they go out the entrance pounding through the waves up the coast -with a shock everything is alright in the world.
Friday 6th June 2008 - This is a short history of Sundowner and crew on a day in June......
4 am awake to thunder and lightening as a storm passes through, check anchor and position, prepare engine in case needed, couple hours sleep, prepare main sail, pull up anchor which was well buried in thick clay, leave harbour.
09.15 raise mainsail and unfurl genoa, sailing at 2 knots
09.50 engine on – no wind, genoa furled, wind swept in 20 knots, main giving extra 1 ½ knots into wind and seas, doing 4 ½ knots, wind increasing, main reefed – down to 3 ½ knots. To pass through passage means turning south into ever increasing wind and sea so change course up into small fishing harbour of San Marco Di Castellabate. Tried anchoring in entrance but dragged, tied to wall with web of ropes.
12.30 walk then rest, Guardia Costeria ok again.
16.00 rough swell (spring tides) entering harbour so pump up dinghy and take anchor out to pull us away from the wall and it’s protruding rocks one meter down. Settled for an evening of storms, the boat and ropes were all cleaned with the amount of rain.
Saturday 7th June 2008 - With just 17 miles to go to Acciaroli we motored outside the reefs of Pt Licosa and kept our promise to return that we had made two years previous to the fuel attendant and after we fueled up he directed us to the harbour wall that was now a building site
but was good for us as it was still free. After a beer that surprised us at the price of Eur 1.35 we had an exploratory walk of the harbour town which was very pleasant, we returned to the bar and proceeded to drink his whole stock of Nastro which meant when we returned in the evening to watch Ronaldo in the football we had to drink Peroni at Eur 1.20! We took the next day off and hired beach loungers and parasol just chilling and reading books, in the evening the bar had restocked with Nastro.
Monday 9th June 2008 - It was nice to set off the next day knowing we were heading for our favourite anchorage of Palinuro and 'mouse island' passing 'bear island' on the way. With very few boats anchored the two days were spent splicing rope and general cleaning of the hull.
Wednesday 10th June 2008 - With the anchor chain being so rusty from the amount of previous use and the winter lay up the brushes came into their own as the anchor was lifted and we washed away the loose powdery rust. With the wind being light we hoisted the cruising chute only for it and the ropes to twist and tangle and a very annoying period of time was spent sorting it out before the wind direction changed and it was put away again and after a lot of slow tacking we thought of stopping and anchoring in the bay of Camerota but instead motored to the cape to pick up some wind which took us very slowly, at 2 knots, to Maratea. In the harbour we passed the pontoons and in a smart piece of manoeuvering berthed sideways between the fishing vessels and tour boats, the transit quay being full of local boats. Our intention was to try and see Paulo the guy who owned the restaurant and had been so friendly on our previous visit but in our five days we never managed to meet him again, instead at the bar along with the football we got friendly with the harbour Capitaniere Giuseppe which meant from then on all our beers were at the local price and along with being very helpful with his wife Denise they also took us to the next town for a pizza. We also became very friendly with the captain and crew of a Sicilian fishing boat even having a meal aboard the wooden vessel that had been passed down generations. They were becoming very disillusioned with the modern fishing processes and were gradually being forced out from the harbour and replaced by leisure and tourist boats something we were told the captain Salvatore's grandfather would never have tolerated and would have settled with his fists. Everybody was sad when we had to force ourselves to leave including a Swedish couple Dante and Kicki who we are still in regular contact with and will meet again one day.
Monday June 16th 2008 - Passing the Sicilians collecting their pots we motored the 32 miles to Cetraro where we anchored outside and spent a bad night in the wind driven swell and regular passing of huge fishing boats and ashore trains thundered past close by through the night. At 3 in the morning, after a change in wind direction, we had to wake Perkins to take us out of the way of the harbour entrance where we had swung. We later learnt that the returning boats were tuna fishing boats at the end of their season.
Tuesday June 17th 2008 - With a 6.30 departure we had an horrendous trip to Vibo Valentia the wind and waves doing their utmost to impede us and half way we stopped and nearly decided to return to Maratea but we slugged it out and then for the last two hours the wind increased and moved behind us sweeping us into to the harbour after 13 hours and 50 grotesque miles. With the anchorage untenable the Marina Stella della Sud were very reasonable with their prices and we stayed an extra couple of nights enjoying the company of Lois and Peter aboard Boxer who we had met briefly at Acciaroli. We even managed to stick a patch over the hole in the centre pod. There had been a lot of fuss earlier in the day when the tuna boats blockaded the harbour. Until told we never realised how the tuna are caught and that it is the females who can't escape by diving deeper because they are pregnant.
Friday 20th June 2008 - We tried to leave for Tropea but were forced back half way to the headland and we had a pleasant downward sail back to the anchorage for a welcome swim. Lois later waved from the beach but due to her glasses being repaired missed Dennis' naked return!
Saturday 21st June 2008 - With a calm morning we left at 6.15, we motored up to the headland and past Tropea and in the calm stopped out at sea for lunch. With no idea where to go next the wind picked up and with a wave to Italy took us to Sicily. The nine hour trip under motor and sail meant we arrived in time for a swim before the sun set behind the island of Vulcano and then a beautiful tranquil night in this spectacular small bay on the west side tip of Capo Milazzo.
Sunday 22nd June 2008 - In the morning the water was clear enough to photograph the anchor in the 6.5 metre depth,
with another swim and scrub of the keels we set off before the 11 o'clock arrival of the Sunday hordes of motor boats. The forecast north west wind duly arrived and gave us our first all day sail, under cruising chute, of the season,
later we pulled into the harbour of Capo di Orlando and fueled up and checked out stopping for the night, we were shown a vacant buoy near the entrance, it was nice just to pick it up and tie a rope around it and settle for the night safe and secure and especially comfortable as we had decided to double up the futons with the guest one seeing as they are actually ours.
Monday 23rd June 2008 - A peaceful night enabled us to get up at 4.30 and after a cup of tea depart at 5.30 the whole world seemed to have gone soft and on a flat sea we made 5.2 knots and it was so calm we calibrated the throttles and log and found we actually go faster on one prop than two which is a bit of a mystery. We later hit something either a log or one of the sleeping swordfish that inhabit the area at this time of year but there appeared to be no apparent damage. We were quite excited to be approaching the town of Cefalu and back into civilisation even if it could be a bit touristy. Instead of anchoring we thought we would take the luxury of a pontoon which was offered at a reasonable 25 euros and as the 35 mile trip had only taken 8 hours we had an afternoon to explore the town and eventually find a local bar on the seafront, it was on the way home that we found out alcohol, flip flops and a long walk don't mix, neither do hangovers and heat when we returned the next day to shop and use the internet - made even more difficult lugging a case of beer.
Tuesday 24th June 2008 - In the afternoon we had the choice of anchoring or moving on but with a nice north west breeze we had a beautiful 3 knot sail of 15 miles under just genoa and autohelm. It was nearly sunset as we checked out the anchorages and then the harbour of Termini Imerese, eventually being whistled at from the far corner and were met by four large intimidating looking guys and while one went to get the payment book we thought we were going to have to pay whatever price they said but they were all smiles and very friendly even the bark from Leo, the dog on a neighbouring fishing boat, was worse than his bite. The next morning we visited the town in hope of a thermal spa only to find the museum.
Wednesday 25th June 2008 - Mid afternoon we left for the short 12 mile trip to Porticello and anchored off the beach with the thought of maybe going ashore to watch the footie but at 7 a boat out of Dartmouth kindly anchored across ours so we moved further away and stayed aboard to what should have been peaceful night but the local fishing boats were out in force all night using huge lights and generating a lot of noise to trap the fish.
Thursday 26th June 2008 - Not in the best of moods in the morning we decided to give Palermo a miss and ended up anchored in 2 metres of water in the middle of the small harbour of Sferracavallo we had earlier anchored outside to wait for the visiting small motor boats to leave. We had entered to check out the harbour but that had proved pretty pointless as our depth sounder had switched over to imperial feet and inches not metric so 1 metre of depth was in fact 1 foot below our keel. We had a good peaceful night amongst the rocks and small craft.
Friday 27th June 2008 - After a good sail we called into Terrasini to fuel up and a friendly guy told us of a new marina just completed at Ballestrate which turned out to be true as we followed a fishing vessel in through the entrance a beautiful empty harbour opened up and at the far end we were welcomed to tie up amongst the small fishing boats and a couple of local boats by the owners of the small sailing club and very friendly they all were even giving us a club burgee. A walk into the town produced a really nice take away pizza and local beer as we watched a wedding party leaving the church in the big square. The next day Roy, aboard an Ocean Twins, arrived and we directed him amongst the fishing boats to tie up. We had seen his boat Touchdown sailing along the previous day and he had come in to change crew.
Monday 30th June 2008 - We thought it best to stay in the harbour for the weekend to avoid the motor boat swarms and Monday morning anchored out in the harbour to clean Sundowner's bottom again. It was only a couple of hours and 7 miles to the next harbour of Castellmare del Golfo where we were met by a RIB and directed onto a what turned out to be a very rocky pontoon but the water was good and we managed to flush out the crap we had got in Cefalu that had made some bad cups of tea even after being filtered. After paying up in the small marina club and emptying the beer machine and being introduced to the local Taliban by the younger fishermen we walked up the big hill to the town square where there was a beautiful 500 year old tree and opposite a butchers shop that also had a couple of slices of pizza. As has become normal practice now in a foreign land the crew of Sundowner were offered beer from the fridge by Maurizio which of course we accepted and then reciprocated so then over a 3 hour period he fed us some local delicacies of cheese and sun dried tomatoes and along with his friends more beer. It turns out that he owns an improvised bar selling paninis from his counter and beer from his fridge and very busy he gets too. Eventually we flop flipped back down the slopey paths with a bag full of gifts and 2 litre plastic bottles of local wine. The next day even though they had told us they had refueled the beer machine we still set off but not before Dennis had a rushed meeting with Andy a United Red from Manchester who was sailing east but we hope to meet again and take up his offer of a few days in his home town maybe even taking in a game of football.
Tuesday 1st July 2008 - We spent the morning sailing against the wind calling into Scopello an old tuna fishing port and saw Touchdown at anchor but it was too small and crowded and after more fruitless tacking the wind died so we had a cooling swim in the unbelievably blue deep water. We were so far offshore Roy later missed us and carried along further thinking we had a head start, we later anchored outside San Vito lo Capo we had been warned how expensive the marina was which was evident on how empty the pontoons were. Roy had carried on to Trapini and had a very uncomfortable night that cost 60 euros but he did get a free bottle of supermarket wine, not that we fared any better with the wind changing strong from the N/W and later when it decreased Dennis could be seen at 3 in the morning trying to paddle Sundowner's bows back into the waves but never succeeding.
Wednesday 2nd July 2008 - So it was a late 10.20 departure and a gentle 3.5 knot sail to the Egadi Island of Levanzo where we tried to anchor but the cala was too small and busy a guy nearby told us of a safe sandy anchorage on the south side of Favignana but half way there Roy sent a text to say he was anchored quietly and safely at Punto Longa further along the same coast and what a beautiful anchorage it was and we swam to his boat and had a jolly evening made literally forgettable with the butcher's blood wine from Castellmare. The next day was unbelievably chilled out in the tranquil bay.
The following morning Touchdown left at 8 then the wind came and we left at 9.30 heading for the north of the island in the southerly wind. Although the books warn we were totally unprepared to the accelerated wind suddenly blowing down the mountainside on the west coast luckily we were only under genoa as it screamed down on us for what seemed ages, we reached the north side where it still blew we then went the wrong side of a hazard marker to avoid the ferries and entered the tuna nets only just managing to avoid getting ourselves trapped as we turned 90 degrees away. When we eventually passed the nets we had to find an anchorage and after passing a few likely ones ended up in Cala Rossa on the north east corner we passed all the yachts until we were right up the front among the small boats our new neighbour being a small tour boat with a holiday group aboard we politely waved to ensure we weren't anchored too close they replied ok and asked if we were Inglese and would we like a beer? So we swam over and greetings were given along with a beer bread and olives each then we joined them for pasta and wine, finished off with Eduardo's grandfather's grappa, coffee and plenty of advise from the captain Enzo about the islands.
A siesta and more swimming in the crystal clear sea, all the time the wind blew overhead then as forecast moved to the N/W so we motored around to the south coast but the sea was still sweeping ashore after the scirocco so we checked out the east side where we found a patch of sand 10 metres down under the shelter of the steep small cliff and again the wind blew above us.
Saturday 5th July 2008 – waking, Dennis feeling a little rough, forecast NW4 meant that we could maybe leave for Marsala but we up anchored and had a gentle sail with the double reefed genoa tacking in and out of the bays before settling once again in Punta Longa a little further out in an area of sand with the surrounding rocks only a metre below our keel, this meant now that we had circumnavigated the island, we then had our breakfast for lunch and chilled out.
Sunday 6th July 2008 - Not sure what to do S/E forecast as wind blew constant from N/E which also meant no row ashore for the 6th day, we stayed put and had a pleasant day amongst the day trippers with their families and friends all laughter and relaxed in groups of up to 10 small boats rafted together
that was of course until the guardia turned up and moved everyone away from the shore using us a boundary marker. We also made it a jobs day emptying lockers and baking cakes. Later feeling smug as the last boat left at sunset and Sunday dinner ready, the wind moved to start blowing into the bay so we smartly up anchored and had a hairy ride along the coast in some pretty strong seas before rounding Punta Marsala and back up into Cala Rossa just before darkness descended.
Monday 7th July 2008 - All was peace in the morning so we rowed ashore for our first walk in 7 days taking with us a flask of coffee and cornetti as we sat amongst the ancient quarries.
Nearly into the holiday season there were plenty of holiday boats, one in particular when we gave him a line as his anchor dragged became friendly and we enjoyed their champagne as they toasted the first day of their holiday – this set the pattern for the day and we ended up having 10 visitors aboard which was fun. Ernesto asked if there was anything he could give us and we said just a smile would be ok, he also invited us to his house for a glass of wine but we were unable to leave our boat. Being probably the only safe overnight anchorage in a southerly wind in the early evening the day trippers left and a lot of the yachts moved to get closer inshore and we had to tell one French yacht he was too close and he obliged by moving and then came aboard for a glass of wine.
Tuesday 8th July 2008 - It doesn't get much better than diving into cold clear water for a swim in the morning, we do worry sometimes about our lack of exercise but today Dennis got plenty when we spotted a young seagull in distress upside down in the water so Dennis swam the paddle out to lift and carry him ashore
which was a fair distance, with only one arm to use it was a very grateful young bird that hopped ashore leaving Dennis to invent a new type of one paddle swimming on the way back to the boat. With a north wind we sailed away from the anchorage close to the coast past the tuna nets and paid a visit to the harbour town then motored north to round the point and set the genoa for the sail to the isle of Marettimo getting a hoot and wave from a passing fast ferry the south east waves being sliced as we powered through in the N/W wind at 4 knots which later mellowed and we flollopped along at 3 knots ending up to the south of the island so we motored north and into the harbour which was instantly picturesque and we were directed to tie up to the pontoon empty of visitors due to the previous days scirocco which would have made the south facing harbour lively. It makes you wonder if it is that much of a problem as all the local boats stay and survive – maybe we have been hardened by the years in Beaucette. The water was so clear we just jumped off the back for a swim. After paying up for two nights we asked for the whereabouts of the best local bar which we found and got a few laughs when we declined the offer of glasses not noticing the bottles were the large 600 ml type, this set the mood for a few hours amongst civilisation after so long at anchor the absence of cars and general noise adding to the ambiance it was like being in a kind of time warp and to add to the authenticity of the little island town there was even dog poo to be avoided on the streets. We were in such a mood we were laughing at such things and Sandra saying “they speak good English dunum!” or when a friend text to ask where he should fly to when he comes to Malta we suggested “best fly to the airport!”. We even bent the ear for an hour of a passing English couple who had enquired where they could buy cinema tickets and Dennis asked what movie was on, not realising the ferry company was called Siremar but we had warned them about the sailor's ability to talk after so long at sea when they had joined us for a drink.
Wednesday 9th July 2008 – during our walk in the morning we accepted an offer of a trip around the island on one of the small converted fishing tour boats which was handy as there is a protection zone around the west coast where yachts are not permitted. It turned out to be an excellent 3 hours going inside grottos and skirting the steep rocky coast so close you could nearly touch the rocks. The only problem was the very noisy engine that banged into the hung over heads and caused a retirement for the afternoon. On the way to the sunset bar in the evening we saw a sign for a pub which we followed up above the town from a distance it looked like a home but turned out to be a very good restaurant with a great view, on entry we had enquired if they would serve us just beer which was ok but later we succumbed and had a pizza and when we went to pay the very reasonable price the young girl said she liked beer also, as it turned out she had been at Warwick university for a year.
Thursday 10th July 2008 – It was a relaxed start to the next day, we left at 10 with a 10 knot north wind making it possible to head for the north of Levanzo and should the wind stop in the early evening we could anchor in sunset bay or pass around the top of the island to close our circuit of the islands. The only problem was the seas were coming from the N/E possibly due to the heavy weather around Corsica and Sardinia it was an uncomfortable course but we stuck at it the only other option to head south. We then made a big mistake in trying to use the cruising chute as a genoa which we had done before but not in these conditions and with the main raised, this caused major hassle even managing to get it wrapped around the mast a few times and after exhausting ourselves it was bagged up wet and the ropes left out to dry. The wind then picked up so we made steady progress east and with only a few miles to clear the top of the island the seas mixed up and increased making it impossible to carry on so we headed S/E to anchor at the sheltered bottom in the lee of the land but even that was not possible so headed further south to the corner of Favignana and checked out the Cala Grande behind the lighthouse which is the closest point to Marettimo where we had left 6 hours before. We just didn't feel comfortable with the cala and with a scirocco forecast for the next day we made the decision to use the now strong N/E wind and head for Marsala back on mainland Sicily and said goodbye to the happy islands which we will never forget. Trying to get to the port before sunset 12 miles away was at times quite scary we even managed to reef the genoa on the run in the increasing winds and were relieved to enter the sheltered waters of the harbour even though the wind was still blowing hard as we pulled up to the fuel pontoon where we were directed to a place in the marina. After a bit of bartering we paid 60 euros for 2 nights instead of the 80 requested because we were a catamaran – an 8 metre boat is usually 20 euros per night. The bar being next to the office we were given a glass of Marsala wine each and then a couple of hours were spent sharing beers with the staff and locals. It's hard to get used to the size of some of the Sicilians - it could be the land of the smiling giants. Forced to stay and chill out due to a scirocco blowing hard a couple of days were spent shopping, internet, museum and the evenings at the quayside bar. A big regatta of 15 French yachts came in after motoring 40 hours against the southerly wind, one crew a young guy opposite looked particularly fed up so we invited him to the bar where he was overjoyed to be away from the boat's crazy captain and wife and amongst friendly people but we were joined by a group although acting friendly were in fact trying to fleece us by ordering expensive bottles of wine and slamming down glasses at a time and later our friend was very upset when given a bill for 250 euros but as we had taken him to the bar we felt it our duty to sort it out and to the dismay of our marina staff friends Dennis, fueled up on beer, expensive wine and self righteousness responded to verbal aggression in the simplest terms and the matter was resolved leaving bruises on the heads of the whimpering fleecers. It was a very solemn following day as we sat out the still strong scirocco having been told to leave but in the early evening we went to pay and were surprised to be greeted warmly even getting reduced rates and a couple of free beers from the bar, very humbling. Later we had one of the owners aboard for spaghetti which he complimented Sandra on, he also brought a case of wine and at one in the morning the boat was crowded with the staff and our French friend.
Monday 14th July 2008 - He left with the regatta in the morning as did we for an eventful days sailing unusually spilling our coffee in the big waves and rounding Capo Granitola we surfed in the wild sea nearly amongst the kite and wind surfers we resisted the temptation to take a movie not wishing to upset the sea gods but it would have been quite spectacular. We then headed for Selinunte the coast was nice but impossible to anchor off the beach and temple,
we had a look at the small nearby harbour but that too looked a dangerous approach so it was off the the next harbour of Porto Paulo di Menfi which is silted up according to the books as we turned to approach the entrance the wind screamed through a gap in the hills and our progress was very slow but we managed to enter with our depth sounder flashing nought but we know now we have nearly a metre to spare and with a check with the lead line we dropped the anchor in the centre of the harbour in just less than 2 metres of water after 8 hours it was bliss and we slept well.
Tuesday 15th July 2008 - Early in the morning we decided to leave and make the most of the wind blowing hard off the land but by the time we left the harbour touching the bed at times the wind had died and we had to motor to the cape which happened to be called Capo San Marco which was strange as to liven up the mood we had just put T-Rex and Marc Bolan loud on the cockpit speakers! Then it was a nice gentle sail around and into the harbour of Sciacca. Once again we were unnerved by how friendly the reception was and continued to be literally unbelievable. With plans to only stay one night we had a long walk ashore along the coast, through the back streets and up into the town where Dennis spotted some Juventus flags flying from the balconies of a large building,
the guy who turned out to be the president of the club invited us to come up and on being asked if he had any beer he replied “yes, come on up!” after receiving a complimentary membership card we phoned the Juventus supporting Pasquale (back in Marsala) to chat to our new friend Luigi and he now has access to the club and possibly tickets for future games. In the evening, after a text, our French friend from the regatta came aboard he is actually paying for his trip to help towards his captain's certificate and loves to sail but is frustrated at the captain's insistence on using the motor. On the way here they motored with the spinnaker up to achieve the required 6 knots – not exactly Glennan's school – but he loves the ship's dog a Yorkshire Terrier who is so pampered he has fresh cuts of meat from the butchers and also wears a solid gold chain. The captain's wife is crazy on a cocktail of alcohol and prescription drugs so every day he collects fresh fruit and makes a very strong punch which she loves then she falls asleep knocked out so when she wakes he offers more and she goes back to sleep and leaves him in peace – a proper punch and judy show! He is a bit of a hippy and she told him to take down the big peace flag that he had bought so it now flies proudly above Sundowner (he is now back in France after leaving the boat early in Malta no doubt leaving some fresh punch behind). He insisted he take us for a late beer to the bar in his marina next door which happened to be owned by a guy who had an extraordinary Yorkshire accent after living for a time in England which meant a 3.30am departure from the bar so we stayed an extra night.
Thursday 17th July 2008 – It was hard to leave the hospitality and friendship of the marina but needing the solitude of the sea we finally left at midday heading for the sand dunes and river below Capo Bianco or the Turks steps as the locals call it, this anchorage given to us by a lovely resident couple, Brian and Christine, what refreshing people to meet bringing back your faith in humanity. Brian being a bit of an expert also explained to us the oddities of the props and now we understand why we go slower using both and it is not a problem. We had a strong sail for the 3 hours with all sails up and a mile from the cape we took in the stay sail as we would be more down wind on Sundowner's choice of course direct to Malta a trip of 24 hours minimum the seas state making anchorage amongst the sand dunes unlikely also a S/E was forecast.
Then a yacht sailed past us in the distance which we thought we recognised and was confirmed as fact using the telephoto camera and a reply to our text – it was Ulisse – a Danish boat we had shared the anchorage with in Gaeta back in August last year. They also said they had wine and would we come back and party – so we did. When we approached the marina we were directed to an available slot amongst the local boats away from the constant swell from the fishing boats so after 6 hours hard sailing we had gone backwards 50 metres! Stories were shared until the early hours on the deck of Ulisse under the light of the moon and we managed to mix the last 2 litre plastic bottle of butchers blood with the bottled wine. With N/W wind forecast for the next 2 days and a full moon for the night passage we were supposed to leave for the 112 mile possibly 30 hour passage to Malta but we have now decided to coast hop right down to the southern most tip of Sicily and cross the 50 miles from Porto Palo in about 10 days.
Sunday 20th July 2008 – After plenty of goodbyes and a good fiesta the night before we managed to leave mid morning and after an hour the wind picked up from the S/W and we sailed with the main and genoa all set wrong but we were making good speeds so we left them, it seems we must normally pull the ropes too tight no matter how much we read the Glennan's sailing book, after a good 3 hour sail the wind died and we had a swim scrubbing off the harbour scum with the plan to anchor outside the harbour of Porto Empodocle with it's reports of being too industrial and scruffy we were surprised as we passed the entrance at how tranquil, safe and pleasant it looked so anchored amongst the multinational selection of yachts. After a revitalising Sunday roast we retired to bed at 9 o'clock in the peaceful corner of the harbour. Just before midnight as Sandra investigated some noise she said “best you get up and see this” the harbour was full of hooting boats large and small and in the middle a boat carrying the Madonna all heading towards us with bands playing then the fireworks started firing 100 metres in front of Sundowner into a spectacular display above – awesome.
Afterwards we had a cup of tea in the cockpit and put a Madonna Cd on.
Monday 21st July 2008 - Awake early we up anchored and motored over smooth seas with the weather so calm that the windmills on the wind farms were frozen in position and we were able to make 5.2 knots easily making our way to Licata with it's new harbour and free anchorage getting a text from Roy saying he was looking forward to seeing us in Sciacca. As we anchored a sea mist descended so dense we couldn't even see the new harbour walls and the ghostly surrounding building site. We anchored in the corner for protection from the now N/W force 7 forecast overnight which didn't happen and we slept right through. In the morning the forecast increased to a force 8
we set our bear trap (danforth) anchor to assist the hooky one (CQR) possibly the wisest move would have been into the high walled protected harbour but the seagulls seemed to appreciate our company once again proving the old adage true - when they return to harbour the weather is going to be bad. This time the forecast was right and we sat 12 anxious hours in the middle of the deserted harbour/marina while the smug bastards under the harbour wall were getting wet with waves coming over the top. Luckily for us the forecast was wrong and it stopped blowing as the sun went down but we were stopped heading out the following morning by more force 7 forecast along the coast. A break in the wind at sunset gave us a chance to go ashore and the Honda was mounted and to our pride and amazement started first pull, this after 2 months. We didn't spend long ashore, an enterprising scouser informed us about the rates to stop on the transit quay he also twisted our brains with his famous scouse wit for half an hour which we all know involves smiling insults that you have to nod in agreement with the fear of upsetting their fragile pride we had a short walk amongst the dereliction but luckily Sandra realised she hadn't brought her purse before we got to a shop or bar. We had a nice chat and glass of wine aboard a German yacht out of Tunisia but left after being disturbed by the money collecting comic - mind you they, in their perfect English, were a match for him and negotiated the lowest rate. Mickey even managed in front of the pleasant Germans when spitting on his favourite topic of drugs to say how Dennis looked like a coke dealer - marvellous he must have a very large black kettle at his camper van mansion. We left stepping over the dead chicken surrounded by flowers and had a wet trip home, luckily Sandra's purse was still aboard where she had left it.
Thursday 24th July 2008 - With the following breeze and seas we motor sailed the 28 miles to Scoglitti in less than 6 hours regularly going over 6 knots. We were really tempted to stop at Gela with it's Mafia connections and all the advise being not to go there but we were flying and decided to go into Scoglitti which isn't even on our c map or the improvements updated in our books or charts it is also very shallow in parts with the attractive coast being very sandy. A disorientated bee came to check our compass and after an hour's sleep we fed him some honey which he enjoyed before buzzing off.
We were hoping to follow a local yacht in but they actually followed us, moving very slowly we rounded the new breakwaters and tied to the fuel pontoon and invited the following yacht to tie alongside. The family were from Malta, Rob was a very experienced sailor as was his 13 year old daughter Danielle as Sandra found out later when we all went ashore for a meal, Dennis showing his dinghy skills by being nearly run down with the family on board by a fishing boat then running aground catching ropes and plastic in the prop. Along with plenty of advice about Malta Rob also told us of the 600 mile 6 day race he has competed in many times from Malta, through Messina, around the Aeolian & Egadi Isles and Pantelleria – he said Dennis would enjoy it so Dennis asked if there was a bar on board and he said they always have a Sundowner – Louisa did enquire if that was the reason they never won! Our new friends left in the morning with the hope to meet up later in Malta. Rob also runs very large construction projects but we haven't got friendly enough with him yet to call him Bob. Roy and Ann aboard Touchdown eventually arrived and were great company both boats anchored together in the nice outer harbour. We now have only 52 miles to cross to Gozo, Malta which we may do overnight soon.