Sundowner II log - 2005 update 20 - Sardegna to Mainland Italy

Saturday 1st October To round Capo Ferro you have to pass through the Bisce Channel and as we neared the turn at the headland to approach the channel the wind and waves increased from ahead forcing us to cross towards the lee of the small Isola Bisce before we could pass through and out to sea being unable to turn south due to the sea state also there was a fair amount of traffic one boat in particular carrying straight on through the waves the next landfall being mainland Italy which seemed rather brave and optimistic in the conditions. After a slow couple of miles we were able to line up a course westwards for the entrance to Porto Cervo and time our turn at a brief quiet moment and surfed down the waves towards and through what looked a very narrow gap but it's small size was just an illusion brought on by the surrounding rocks, buoys and big water confirmed as we were passed by a large fast motor boat exiting at speed crashing spectacularly through the tall waves. Once inside the shelter of the harbour we headed for the fuel pontoon, not that we needed much fuel it is just a rouse to obtain water and suss out the area and relax for a few minutes. We had to pay the 7 euros for the diesel in cash, as it was too small an amount by card much to the amusement of the lad on the pump obviously used to dealing in much larger denominations. We learnt later some of the berths could cost as much as 20,000 euros per week in high season. With the summer season now over it was relatively easy to pick a spot out of the way in shallow water at the top of the anchorage area in sand between the submerged lumps of rock. A couple who we had last seen back in the winter in Portimao came over for a chat and gave us the info on the other few yachts at anchor which were a couple of American, one British and a rather small boat flying the Breton flag so when the young couple were passing rowing their dinghy we got out and waved our Breton flag to which they came over and a friendship was struck up. We had promised ourselves the first time we dragged our anchor we would move into the marina but we seemed to hold after a second attempt, the first time the anchor could be seen using the mask and snorkel sliding through the shallow layer of sand covering the rocky bed. We only found out later that the only reason that we held so well was because when the wind changed direction the chain looped around some large rocks which also accounted for Marie and Yann`s sleepless nights aboard Astuce due to the sound of the chain scraping against the rocks. The couple from Portimao had offered us across to their boat in the evening but luckily they had moved into the marina when the wind had increased further, so saved us the embarrassment of apologising as after an offer of a meal and wine aboard Astuce we dinghied home in the small hours.

Sunday 2nd October
Sunday morning a cup of tea out in the cockpit not quite eight o'clock a strong wind blowing down from the hills through the small harbour and out to sea towards Italy only a couple of days sail away, there is definately a winter’s feel coming on, Sazza even succumbing to putting on her jeans. We should be up anchoring really but are still a bit foggy after a great evening aboard Marie and Yann`s boat, two wanderers from Breton, it is so great to meet like minded people doing the same thing. The next few days were spent waiting for the weather to calm and spending time in the company of Marie and Yann when they weren’t trying to catch up on their lost sleep since their hectic trip from Brittany which included a two month wait for parts and insurance settlement after their boat being struck in it's home berth. A lot of time was also spent watching out for the numerous charter boats that constantly caused mayhem dragging their anchors and needing to be rescued when their outboards failed or as in one case retrieving a dinghy from the shore where it had spent the night after untying itself escaping from the boat full of German numties, a good source of free bottles of wine though and our Honda outboard excelled when towing one group of rather large beer bellied bavarians helplessly heading out through the entrance. We also regularly towed Marie and Yann ashore which was nice to be able to do after all the times Buddy had ferried us about around Portimao last winter. The little gremlin aboard Sundowner has now accounted for the navigation dividers, Dennis’ log pen and one of the cooker knobs.

Thursday 6th October
As last year ended with the last page left in the logbook used for the last trip of the year to Portimao so was the case this year with oddly only one page left for the trip across to mainland Italy and with a reasonable forecast it was time move on having said our farewells to Marie and Yann the previous day on our way to look in the windows of the closed supermarket, they were going to spend a few days exploring the Costa Smeralda coast then head south to winter in Tunisia quite a long trip of between 4-500 miles not something we would fancy at this time of year but Yann was in fact an instructor at the Glennan sailing school where he happened to teach Marie and their boat although small has a renowned pedigree well admired to people that know their stuff they showed us video footage sailing at 12 half knots on their way to Corsica. We are actually looking forward to tucking up in Gaeta or Formia for a while in just a few days time, maybe not Rome as planned due to reports of the marinas there filling up also it would be nice to be near Sandra’s sister and family. So just the 160 mile two night trip to the volcanic Hawaiianesqse island of Ponza to rest and prepare to rejoin the land of civilisation again a quick hop of under 40 miles away. Not that we are uncivilised we had a great shower the other day aboard Sundowner Dennis even getting a shave also doing some clothes washing with water curtsey of the marina which to some people is the most expensive in the world.

Thursday 6th October
With a reasonable early start just after eight, once we had removed the anchor chain from amongst the rocks, we were out in the open sea heading east with the weather looking pretty grim so we turned into the next Cala a couple of miles around the corner and picked up a lonesome buoy and had breakfast while we kept a eye on the weather. After an hour and a check on the Navtex which was still giving variables then going to light north westerlys we set off again with thoughts of a run with the cruising shute a situation we had joked about to Marie and Yann laughing at a two day gentle cruise ghosting along under the large sail saying goodbye to Sardegna. In reality it only took an hour and a half to be motoring away from the storms approaching from the land of honey and by early evening we were sailing under reefed sails in strong winds with cloudy heavy weather fronts once again in all directions around the horizon not what you want with two nights at sea ahead turning back not an option just a case of plodding on. Then out of nowhere a small bird arrived searching around the boat to rest and shelter from the strong wind and rain at one stage it looked like it might settle in the cockpit but was too wary and timid. It's funny how the presence of such a small creature in the middle of nowhere can calm and reassure, we even had a couple of visits from dolphins to add more comfort. Dennis due to fear of upsetting the sea gods has for a long time now used an ashtray when at the helm and nothing inedible gets thrown over the side but as it was raining and the ashtray wasn’t at hand he flicked his ciggy butt across the cockpit only to see it taken by the wind and shoot along the rails like a bullet producing a shower of sparks around the stern then looked in horror as the little bird shot up from amongst the fluttering flag, chest out, wings spread and flapping with a "you bastard" look on its face and promptly flew off into the maelstrom. In a bit of stunned shock Dennis, feeling like he's just driven over a bunny and its litter, replied to Sandra emerging from the cabin camera in hand asking "where's the little bird" with "oh it flew off probably to somewhere warm" oops. Not good karma as when she was about to fry the eggs to top off the bubble and squeak with homemade bake beans the gas ran out.
With separate thunder storms surrounding us around and over the whole horizon we carried on into the night just the odd fishing boat for company and glimpses of lights from the land left behind in the far distance, later in the dark we were caught in one deluge and ignoring the lightning used the radar to track the fishing boat and another set of lights that had suddenly appeared probably a large commercial vessel. With visibility down to just a few meters in some of the cloud bursts the masthead light would cast an arc down through the rain water and out around the stern like a floodlit stage set you half expected a sequined Diana Ross or Neil Diamond to step through the rather bizarre semi circle wall of light.

Friday 7th October
So the night went on, at one stage we seemed to cross a traffic zone as numerous what appeared to be mostly fishing vessels passed across our course luckily to our stern. Dawn could be seen as a small light poking vainly through the two big storm fronts ahead more to the sides and a huge one chasing from the rear flashing big wicked strikes the short distance to the sea the smell reminding Dennis of his old scalextric overheating, not a word was spoken as Dennis took over the watch from Sandra just passing a knowing look to each other as mother nature showed off her full powers. Being in a small clear area surrounded by the mayhem the jam middle of the dodger it was hard to make a decision as to what to do, make a run for the gap ahead, ask Sandra to move into the berth away from the electrics, disconnect them all, change course, but in the best tradition of ‘if it ain't broke don't fix it’ we just carried on and after a couple of hours just managed to pass through the gap ahead between the slow moving storm fronts and as we exited the gap closed and all the fronts seem to merge together like a big black hole covering the whole sky behind and all the smaller clouds around were rushing to join the mass. A small sailboat appeared from the north heading along the edge of the front then rather bizarrely turned and disappeared into the wall of flashing moisture. We then remembered we still had some gas left in the small bottle 400g we had bought in Gernica back in the Basque country and had a very welcome morning hot cup of tea.
With a spectacular sunrise the sky changing colours and shape by the minute the wind built allowing Sundowner to sail further away from the main front we even had visit from a little bird stopping for a brief rest. The rest of the day was spent alternating from doing a couple of hours sailing then motoring and when the wind finally stopped the diesel tank was filled ready for the night run and as darkness closed in so did the storm fronts the waves having been increasing all evening.

Saturday 8th October
All was pretty uneventful until a couple of fishing boat lights appeared along with a large cruise liner lit up like a small town all bearing across our stern or away from our course then out of the flashing clouds came an almighty rain storm so strong once again the radar had to be used to check on the other shipping, it worked so well it would pick up the rain in the approaching fronts luckily not the lightning. With the wind screeching, sea in total confusion and Sundowner seeming to sink further down as if the amount of rain had diluted the salty sea the large amount of money spent on our wet weather gear, boots, life jackets and harnesses proved a good investment keeping reasonably warm and dry in the safety of Sundowner’s centre cockpit the mind could concentrate and rather than feeling threatened it all became quite exciting in a what the hell am I doing here sort of way. The shadowy shape of the island of Ponza could be seen ahead in the lightning flashes as morning neared a few hours later we were rounding its southern tip in the dark using our C.map as the lighthouse was out of action also there are some pretty wicked out lying rocks to avoid. Dawn arrived to light up the passage through the rocky reefs to the harbour entrance, we did have the choice of carrying on to the mainland but in need of rest and the marina in Gaeta needing another week or so for a space for us to become available we entered the harbour and then carefully chose a suitable spot in the restricted anchor area as large concrete mooring blocks were visible below in the few metre depth, after laying our anchor and our penultimate welcome Guernsey blackberry vodka it was time to sleep.
As it was raining and we had decided to leave the next morning the dinghy was left packed up, Ponza not really inspiring us or maybe we were just tired and needed to put an end to the trip having had a long year Ponza being our 40th place visited and if the marina wasn’t ready we could always pay a visit to the bay of Naples even Capri which is on the hit list. So a few txt messages, meal a game of cards and it was an early night.

Sunday/Monday 9th/10th October
Sandra got up at 1.30 due to the noise of the wind and rocking of the boat. Dennis was raised from his slumber as for the second time Sundowner's sea qualities had hidden the danger outside (the last time while we were watching a DVD anchored in the surf outside Portimao marina). The wind was blowing strongly straight through the harbour entrance with the sea running directly into the shallow anchorage in the far corner of the harbour, of the six boats previously at anchor only four remained and two of those were readying to leave which they did mooring to the harbour wall sheltered behind the breakwater so that left just us and a large yacht that had somehow been blown nearly alongside us sometimes ten sometimes twenty meters away the occupant didn't seem that concerned as he came on deck and promptly went back down to sleep. By now the scene was turning rather scary with seas breaking on the edge of the rocky shore only a few boat lengths behind, the waves increasing all the time. Like reefing by the time you have thought about it it's too late, the same applies to up anchoring because within less than an hour the swell was so large to attempt to retrieve it would have been dangerous on the rising and pitching deck, Perkins lent a hand keeping Sundowner head to wind and waves but struggling at times in the violent motion both up and down and sideways. With safety lines on the anchor chain was prepared, flaked out, string cut at the bitter end and knife ready to cut the rope stabilizing rodes from each bow with an anchor buoy attached to one, every now and then just as at sea one or two waves would catch up with another and sweep in at great speed hissing like a steam train a rushing white wall of water crashing into and sweeping across the bows lifting Sundowner as we waited, heads down, crouched in the cockpit for the incoming water that Sundowner never allowed to enter as she shook it away as she rose, before elegantly swooping down the back of the monster shuddering slightly reaching the bottom as she met the next challenger as the previous one met it's end amongst the rocks the short distance behind. A glance at the depth gauge showed the four meters of water rise to 6.8 then fall to 2.8 a bit of a worry with the mooring blocks littered around, things were made a little easier when the large yacht alongside woke up to the danger and managed to up anchor and headed out to sea. A big motor cruiser entered and left the harbour a couple of times during the next few hours obviously it was safer outside than trying to manoeuvre in the high winds around the relatively small harbour. Around 3ish the same flashy silver Miami vice type motor boat that had exited at full throttle through the anchorage earlier in the afternoon came through the surf of the entrance and turned to starboard into the tiny bay by the boatyard which seemed odd as it didn't look very protected but we were too busy to worry. In all honesty it was terrifying trapped in the corner too dangerous to leave and just as dangerous to stay so it was back to basics for the second time in 24hrs and we went with the flow and stayed although prepared to leave if it got any worse which was hard to believe it could. Eventually the wind moved more to the north coming not so strong off the land rather than the open sea, But of course this was enough to blow Sundowner sideways, beam on to the waves and too much for poor Perkins, it also meant letting go the anchor and chain would be more difficult, ho hum, without the power of the wind the waves were slightly more bearable and true to form Sundowner showed her sea worthiness once again and just rode the waves to perfection sliding sideways up over and down the waves a little uncomfortable for her occupants now retired powerless inside the saloon but they were confident to leave the real work to the expert. We had read how this tactic can be used in storm conditions with a drogue or sea anchor attached to bow and stern just letting the boat ride the weather, though probably best in the open sea not bad on a lee shore at anchor in a restricted harbour either. The rising sun bringing some welcome light all seemed a lot calmer and towards 8 o'clock it seemed a good idea to join the others on the quay, it was quite a task to retrieve the anchor by hand as the long hours of having 3 tons of boat pulling it deeper into the sea we were to find out later caused Dennis a bit of a rupture as we readied the ropes and stern anchor one by one all the other boats left the quay and as we approached we were waved away by an official what we hadn't realised was it was in fact a ferry terminal and the ferry was due to arrive shortly. A friendly English voice hailed us to ask us if we had a problem and we explained that we only really wanted a cup of coffee so George negotiated with the official and we were allowed alongside, George supplied the both of us two cups of coffee and a cake each and some good advice of a sheltered anchorage around and behind the other side of the island, we also learnt that macho man in his silver motor cruiser had driven straight up onto the slipway of the boatyard after holing the boat on some rocks out at sea also the yachts on the quay even though they were sheltered had been hitting each others masts swaying in the rough conditions.
We also learnt that you can moor to the quay after 6-30 in the evening when the ferries stop as long as you are gone in the morning. With a hasty departure before the arrival of the ferry we headed out of the harbour but in the headwind and sea we could barely make 2 knots so did an about turn back into the harbour taking a couple of embarrassing attempts at lassoing a buoy, the job made difficult more through tiredness than the heavy swell, also it was one of the red buoys marking the anchorage perimeter where we had seen the large car ferries turning by dropping their anchor then swinging of it to dock stern to the quayside. But we were too tired to really care and needed to chill out and take stock of the situation. George kindly called us on the VHF to inform us that the anchorage Chiaia di Luna on the opposite side of the island was calm and several yachts were anchored there but we’d had enough for now and got some rest. Earlier when we were about to leave the quay a French charter yacht had arrived and tried unsuccessfully to moore alongside us and were now anchored nearby along with a handsome tri-maran. Later in the afternoon when everything had quietened down we managed a trip ashore and after a walk looking at yet more closed shop windows we had to return to the dinghy as we have lost the confidence to leave it out of sight unattended in unfamiliar places, but returning to the boat we decided a beer would be nice and as we had spotted what looked a quiet secure place behind the ferry quay we tied up the dinghy amongst the small fishing craft, it was only after facing some locked gates we realized we were in the police compound to the rear of the police station from which a uniformed officer kindly showed us a hole in the fence and we made our exit and headed straight to the bar overlooking the harbour where we had noticed the French party sat outside earlier and as they were flying the Breton flag knew they would be up for a chat which proved to be the case as immediately, in true Breton style, a conversation was struck up and the beers started to flow. We learnt they had been heading for Sicily through the night and been forced to turn back due to the bad conditions which we could imagine must have been pretty awful but as is in their character they just accepted the situation and got on with the present and a great evening was had by all, they even invited us to join them for pizza which was easily accepted and as the wine and Grappa flowed we even managed to out sing an Italian party with a mixture of Somerset and Breton ballads. But all things have to come to an end which they did when the wind started blowing in through the restaurant a quick look outside saw Sundowner resembling a white stallion in the darkness pitching wildly at her mooring buoy as once again the waves swept through the harbour the only scrap of consolation was the fact we had added an extra line to the buoy. Walking towards the charter boat she could be seen hitting her stern against the quay wall in the large swell, which caused some damage more to everyone’s spirit than the gel coat. The problem we faced now was returning to Sundowner through the almost surf conditions getting aboard would also be a little difficult, the maritime police in their launch had already cleared the anchorage getting everyone to moor to the quay as we now realize they had done the night before and we still don’t understand why they never visited us maybe it was too rough for them in our particular position, who knows.
The problem was soon solved by Sandra using her limited Italian aided by copious happy juice and large smile, a friendly local motored us out in his small fishing boat and expertly maneuvered alongside Sundowner for us to easily and gratefully climb aboard, we were so grateful that as we only had a 50 euro note and believing in good karma thought what was meant to be and all that gave it to him even though he hinted at the start that enough for a packet of cigarettes would have been sufficient, brotherhood of the sea and all that. With just the ropes to release after warming Perkins it was a relatively simple task to back away from the buoy and head to the shelter of the quay mooring also made easy with the help of the French party alongside. Just the dinghy to retrieve from the police compound and we could all settle down which proved to be quite amusing breaking and entering to steal your own property. The final problem to overcome was the lack of happy juice in Sundowner’s store which consisted of one part bottle which can only be described as cooking Brandy brought back in Guernsey to make mulled wine but it sufficed along with the Breton music cd - a present from Marie and Yann which was appreciated by the French aboard and then it was 3 o’clock and the end of another couple of day’s quiet cruising.
With the early arrival of the ferry it was an early rise to cast of and raise the anchor also to say goodbye to our new made friends. They went to fuel up and we prepared to make the small trip around the corner to the safe anchorage of Luna Bay we then got a call on the VHF to maybe assist the French party as they had grounded next to the fuel pumps, what wasn’t known was during the summer months the shallow area around the fuel quay is pontooned, we took a line and after some effort from Perkins pulled them free only for the temperature gauge to rise rapidly so it was a quick run to the red buoy and tie up to set about finding the problem made more bearable when the Breton party, before they left, dinghied across to come aboard and give us a bottle of wine signed by all the crew and after a Erwan style sailing photo shoot they left for their long trip to Corsica - sorry Corse.
We replaced the water pump impeller a job we knew how to do as Darcy had insisted we did with it him back in Guernsey as they had the same problem two years previously funnily enough around Gaeta forcing them to winter their Boat in the same marina we were heading for and with a delayed departure we rounded the southern headland in the opposite direction we had passed two days earlier, a course to Gaeta not possible in the still rough conditions with the obligatory head winds and sea. In the large high cliff sided half moon shaped bay we were rewarded with possibly the clearest and quietest water so far and swam snorkeling to check the underside of Sundowner clearing the water inlets wet suits were worn as the water is definately getting cooler. Strangely it was hard to relax even with the perfectly peaceful surroundings so a departure was planned for the next day after a peaceful nights rest. Dinner was that bit tastier with the nice bottle of Chianti wine courtesy of the French friends.

Tuesday 11th October
Refreshed for the trip to mainland Italy with all sails raised we sailed from the anchor but we didn’t get far past the headland before returning due to the bad conditions and after re-anchoring were still not happy with the water situation and the overheating problem turned out to be a rusted fitting blocking an inlet pipe. Desperate for gas we had to climb the cliff path to get to the town where we sourced a supplier who gave us a bit of a scare telling us that we shouldn’t leave the boat in the Chiaia di Luna but we had already bought a supply of food and beer before rushing back to Sundowner.

Wednesday 12th October
Another early rise at 5 o’clock but in the early morning quietness of the bay on checking Perkins by torchlight air could be heard escaping from the pump and further inspection showed an inner seal needed replacing not possible with the tools available aboard Sundowner so it was a trip back up the cliff for Dennis in search of a workshop which was eventually successful but only a bodge job could be completed as the pump needed new bearings not available at the time. Pump replaced we were ready to leave by 11 o’clock we had breakfast while checking the weather and as the earlier thunder clouds had passed set off at 1 o’clock willing to sail overnight and if need be a landfall in the dark would also be willingly undertaken. An hour and a half later we were back anchoring in the harbour of Ponza along with more yachts than we had seen previously possibly due to the wind moving more southerly making Chiaia di Luna untenable we have since seen pictures of the bay in the wrong conditions - awesome. We managed to refill the German can before resting.

Thursday 12th October
The plan was to leave any time after midnight which is when the north easterlies returned giving the Ponza harbour the by now familiar washing machine feel. All the other yachts scattered either to the quay or braved the trip around to Luna we sat it out Dennis amusing himself melting candles much to the annoyance of Sazza. By 5pm there was relative calm but the weather was still coming from the direction of Gaeta

Friday 14th October
Whey hey sunrise as we leave the harbour motoring into the wind and sea after a couple hours raise the sails and sail towards the mainland well north of Gaeta but at least were sailing and before we hit land the wind changes setting us on a perfect course for Gaeta then dies and we motor through the biggest patch of refuge imaginable the props doing their job collecting as many plastic bags as possible but with the wind back we sail around the headland and med moor to the outer wall of the marina as the sun sets EASY!