Sundowner II log – 2005 update 19 – Sardegna


Wednesday 14th September
You would have thought after a busy few days a lie in would be in order but with the adrenalin still flowing the autohelm was fixed, taken apart and repaired using the broken bits and a sewing needle as a shaft pin, the boat was tidied then off further into this large landlocked bay to fuel up which had to be done using the German can from the small marina at Porto Conte. The wind still up and blowing making the seas a little choppy we returned back up to Cala del Bollo. We had noticed the tour boats entering a very small bay with a bar at the end of the slipway so after anchoring we set off in the dinghy and found another 10/10 bar much like the one up the hill in San Sebastian on the edge of the fort just being there scoring highly, with a few welcome beers and friendly owners also a friendly chat with a couple of lads from Milan we went to leave only to find they had paid our tab when they left a little earlier which was very pleasant and appreciated but we suspect that when they made the offer they were a little surprised how many we had consumed in the short time before their arrival. Plans to move on were put on hold after so many days on board, a visit to the caves next day looking a more relaxed option.

Thursday 15th September
We awoke with the wind still blowing and began to realise we were slowly dragging our anchor down the cala and had to reposition using both anchors due to the weed grass on the sea bed and set off later in the afternoon for the trip to Neptune’s Grotto which was very good if a little tiring walking up the hill at the back of the cape and then down 500 steps on the path cut into the cliff edge from the top down to sea level.

Friday 16th September
With an early rise a little delayed as the anchors were untangled we set off morning cup of tea in hand motoring in the shelter of the cape then ‘bang’ turning straight into big headwinds and seas taking just a few seconds to decide to return, it was about turn in the waves and re-anchor this time closer to the bar which we visited later after a walk and unsuccessfully trying to get a bus to Alghero for gas and food. Now being locals we had a good chat with the crew of one of the Grotto Boats that pick up from the slipway off the bar. We admired their seamanship as we had seen them off loading the visitors into the mouth of the cave in the large swell. They kindly offered to supply us with water if we sailed down to Alghero and tied up to the fisherman’s quay as we were now down to just a few 5 litre bottles at which the bar owner, Marco, also offered to fill our large 25 litre containers but it being Friday afternoon and the end of the working week it was too late in the day for an excursion.

Saturday 17th September
Sardegna is truly a big beautiful friendly place which we have looked forward to returning to as we had visited 21 years previously when we came to see our friend Jeff who at the time was working in the hotel Forte Cappellini on the north east coast, we had pitched our tent on a little beach in a bay just around the corner swimming around in the early morning for water and to use the showers at his beach bar. We had survived for 3 weeks until the mistral came on our very last night and blew our tent away in pieces. That was also late September which was why we really wanted to be on mainland Italy by now but with all the changes in the environment and weather patterns, the polar ice cap having melted by 30 per cent in the last 10 years alone and us having sailed in the Atlantic around Cape St Vicente, Portugal in November it seems just a case of pot luck what you get and shit can happen anytime. And it did the next morning when we awoke with the wind blowing from the south straight into the cala it was time to clear out with the wind and sea pushing us close to the rocky edge that had protected us from the northerly winds the anchors were raised untangled and we headed out of the cala but with the sea state we couldn’t turn down into the large bay as the waves would be hitting us beam side on so we aimed for the other side hoping for a little shelter to enable us to turn and head to relative shelter, there was an anxious period when even with Perkins doing his best we didn’t make much headway and were in danger of being swept onto the shore at the mouth of the small Cala del Bollo that we were leaving but we managed to creep along never quite making the other side where oddly enough a small yacht was moving along out to sea. Two hours later having only covered 3 miles we anchored in sand in calm water 3 metres deep just outside the marina at Porto Conte. Later two other yachts arrived one being the one we had seen earlier going out to sea Geoff and Nicki on board who we were to get friendly with later. Sundowner got a wash in the awesome rain storms all the ropes sparkling after washing away months of dust and the winds moved to a north west mistral. Sitting out the weather with time on our hands we devised an excellent method to check on our position using a piece of graph paper and the handheld GPS especially useful at night or when the visibility is bad it gives an instant physical history within the anchor swinging circle which also gives peace of mind when the brain starts playing tricks on you and you start imagining and fearing the worst when in fact everything is alright. With a break the next day we managed to get ashore although it being a Sunday we managed to obtain some gas and a little food from a small supermarket in the local town and a welcome beer in the local bar. However we did make the mistake of entering the small bar/restaurant by the marina for a scoop which not only had the usual over priced beer but the snobby up their own arses British clique in residence – no wonder the staff are miserable. It did, as every misfortune does, give a bonus and with Dennis in a ‘I want some time out’ rage went across to visit the neighbouring yacht and a friendship was struck up and we learnt of their 6 years aboard just returning from Turkey we even later followed their advice and re-anchored on the far side of the cala, although windier off and down the mountainside the sea was calm not having the fetch over the mile and a half of cala where we had been rocked roughly. It was a little depressing when the starter motor made uncomfortable noises when turning to start and would possibly need an overhaul. Sitting out the weather for a couple more days gave us the chance to chat a bit more to Geoff and Nicki and they kindly showed us the best cruising areas south particularly Turkey a small history lesson also thrown in which was quite amusing as they when on the subject of snobby brits abroad had told us how their standard of education and quality of school had been put into question after they had enquired as to the meaning of the name on a blue flagged boat also you cant just have an idle conversation with the upperarsed classes without being told your boat is far to small for serious idleness sorry backpassage making. It turned out the lettering was some Greek money worshipping god who slayed the masses and left her empire in ruins, Twatcher.

Wednesday 21st September (Seb’s Birthday)
The weather had calmed to such a degree we could see both of the anchors amongst the weed 4 metres down, with no food or water left we headed for Alghero and had a pleasant sail under genoa where we were met by Cristian in his rib who directed us to the fuel quay then a berth in the Marina di S. Elmo and at 15 euros not bad after 5 months at anchor (not counting the forced berth in Cadiz). With shopping and e mail to do after the siesta in the meantime the water tanks were filled and washing completed when knock knock it was Andy who we had last seen in Santandria, Menorca, he also needed to do some shopping and he had a hire car – handy Andy! So we went to his local bar and had beer while they wheeled out the lap top on a trolley for the internet we then went to look at the supermarket before having more beer then the obligatory pizza and as he had that morning arrived from Gatwick where he had bought a DVD we finished off the night watching the new Hitchhikers movie aboard Sundowner. It was great the next day when Andy drove us to the supermarket and we stepped the short distance to load his car with our food stock then the few metres from car to boat. We now have a slight list as the starboard bilges have a great capacity to hold beer and wine, we said goodbye to Andy as he was off to pick up friends from the airport, just as we were casting off to leave a friendly family stopped to chat which is such a rare occurrence it was quite shocking and what nice people they turned out to be coming from Sundowner’s home port of Falmouth. It was back to Cala del Bollo for a final farewell to Marco and his bar.

Friday 23rd September
Ten days after our arrival, determined to get north and through the Fornelli Passage and turn east again towards Rome, Perkins was purring as we passed close inshore through the islets and on a calm sea and no wind the 30 miles to the passage was pleasant not worried too much to be motoring as the miles were being eaten up and we knew how different the conditions could be. It was similar to being around Guernsey with the rocky coastline and taking up the marks on the land to guide us through the shallow, at times 3 meter depth, narrow passage between the mainland and the large island nature reserve the route actually saves 20 miles but can only be navigated in good weather and is forbidden at night. Leaving the passage we had the choice of whether to stop at the nearby marina at Stintino or as it was still early carry on, which we did, to the marina in Castelsardo which just happened to be where the family from Falmouth were wintering their boat. The sea in the bay, in the lee of the Isola Asinara, was unreal, so flat it resembled a reservoir or lake and with the genoa hoisted to aid Perkins we motor sailed at an average of over 6 knots covering the 22 miles in 3 hours including an amusing face off with a trawler who eventually gave us a cheery wave as he passed by our stern – guess he’s got a new litter of kittens waiting at home. Castelsardo is a nice well sheltered harbour with a good mix, some fishermen and yachts of many nationalities but few British. We were welcomed by a cheery relaxed ‘ormeggiatorro’ and being yet another Friday night we passed the evening away with the locals in the quayside bar Skippers. In the morning we walked up the hill to the town for a little shopping including a new light for Sandra’s galley as she had been cooking by torchlight lately. When we paid up for our nights stay it was quite a shock to be only charged 7 euros so before a shower (the last when we sneaked in at Gibraltar) we handed over another 7 euros to give our Friday night heads a rest. We then met Phil, Gav and Mick who had just arrived, they had anchored in Cala del Bollo and later passed us the day before and had stopped in Stintino harbour. We accepted their invite for a beer later and were rewarded with some great stories of their exploits going back to the early 70s all belt and braces stuff, one in particular as young teenagers they, along with another friend, had built a Warram Cat and sailed to Antigua running out of money finding work etc eventually selling the boat to a charter company in Martinique where they delivered her. Thankfully all these years later the spirit is still there and it was sad to see them go the next day but it was fun especially in the early hours back on Sundowner with Dean Martin and laughter echoing across the marina. Sandra eventually cooking our oyster mushrooms for dinner at 3 am. It was also time for us to move on not really recovered from Andy’s knock on the boat in Alghero but just before the lads had left the family from Falmouth arrived and handed out a beer and chat but we still had the engine running later to travel the 10 miles to Isola Rossa where we were to anchor before entering the notorious Bonifacio Straight. But after an hour of chat with the offer of a meal Perkins was rested and a great evening was had aboard Xanadu with Steve and Fiona then ice cream for the kids at the bar later.

Monday 26th September
We managed an early start and motored to the bay of La Colba at Cabo Testa passing in and around Isola Rossa where we should have been anchored one of the previous nights watching the world cup kite surfing championships. There seemed to be no evidence of anything taking place but there were a few kites further along the coast nearer Cabo Testa which is tucked in below the tip of northwest Sardegna on the southern side in the entrance to the Bonifacio straights. Our log now shows 3500 miles since leaving Guernsey which seems a lot floating about on the water wonder what the figure would be if you added up and down as well?

Tuesday 27th September
With a perfectly peaceful night at anchor in the company of only two other yachts we set off north for the harbour at Bonifacio, French Corsica 10 miles away and with perfect timing arriving and docking on the fuel pontoon as it closed for lunch which meant after fuelling up we had a couple of hours free bearth to shop look around and quick beer and internet. We must be getting a bit blasé as although a nice harbour and it was nice to get the French feel again we couldn’t quite see what all the fuss was about and as for being one of the most spectacular in the world try the Cobb at Lyme. Returning it was a great sail one tack taking us back to the Sardegna side before anchoring in the small Baia di S. Reparata north of, and on the other side of, our previous nights anchorage just inside the entrance to the straights.

Wednesday 28th September
With yet another peaceful night we rose early and went ashore to a small deserted beach and had coffee and French bought croissants in the early morning peace and warm sunshine contemplating history and time amongst the quarried rocks and roman columns strewn about. The anchor was lifted and sails raised and not dropped until in the far end of the large and lovely bay of Liscia with dozens of kite and windsurfers giving a colourful welcome. It had been a great downwind sail along the coast in the fairly strong wind and powerful sea with its scattered rocks adding to the short trip we even unintentionally, as we hadn’t even raised the mainsail and were just enjoying the sail under genoa only, out paced a larger yacht that had followed us out of the anchorage. With the sea bed dropping from the shoreline to 16 meters within just 5 meters we had to use all our 50 meters of chain to account for the deep depth, though not quite enough the anchor held well and if we were to drag there was plenty of sea room in the enclosed bay to sort things out.

Thursday 29th September.
The wind started early in the morning and increased throughout the day but with Sandra’s graph showing us keeping position it was ok and not knowing the wind speed not too much to worry about. Early in the afternoon it increased so much all the kite surfers packed in and left along with the other three boats at anchor so we felt quite lonely amusing ourselves playing cards as the early evening approached the Navtex giving us a force eight forecast we had the second anchor readied if needed also adding some straps to the solar panel the bits of string struggling in the strong wind, at least the sea was moderate not having any distance to build in the short distance from the shore. I suppose being so chilled in the potentially dangerous situation as darkness began to fall the last thing you would want is to add any anxiety well it arrived in the shape of a large Lagoon Catamaran and with over 12 square miles to choose from he obviously had to anchor upwind ahead of us where we had left plenty of room from the shore should the wind change direction and as the sun went down we watched as he slowly dragged towards us - unbelievable unless you had already read the script. By the time they noticed of course they were nearly on top of us and not content with nearly hitting us they proceeded to cross our bows partly through stupidity and also the fact they had ahead a guy in the water who must have fancied a swim or of course he could have been checking the anchor in the dusk and 16meters of water and gale force winds sure it didn’t seem such a good idea as he hung from the anchor chain at the bow with water rushing to the props at the stern. Luckily not having laid our second rope anchor it didn’t get chewed up in their props as they came so close and by some stroke of good fortune they didn’t lift our main anchor as they lifted theirs across ours. Well at least we didn’t have to stay up all night wondering when, not if, they would drag into us as they beat a hasty retreat where to who knows as the closest sheltered anchorage just around the corner has poor holding and we had seen the many masts crowded together in the distance shame really as an extra anchor or a decent size anchor would have sufficed in the conditions. The weather and navigational warnings on our Navtex have been pretty reliable lately but lacking in any of the bizarre warnings like last years locust swarms etc but there was one where a boat with sixty persons on board was reported drifting. It turned out it wasn’t refugees heading for mainland Europe but a lifeboat from the cruise ship The World, full of the ship's telephone sanitizers, accountants and life’s wasters in general? It turns out they had been tricked into the life boat by the captain Mr D Adams telling them the ship was sinking and were cast off first only for the ship to carry on happily without the extra load of wasters and social climbers whose origins were unknown due to them all having undergone elocution lessons so as their accents couldn’t be recognised. It was a bit cruel as they were given the only leaking boat but the captain had not taken into account the resourcefulness of the debutant events organiser who built a far superior raft using the crews flip flops wonder bras and stretchy large knickers powered by a hoover which was also supplied with power from the male members of the crew using copious rubbing motions and any excess fluid making a remarkable sun burn solution which was needed in large amounts as they headed to colonise a tall island off the coast of brazil, tall being a priority as they practised their communal social events such as climbing.

Friday 30th September
The wind had died by the morning and after a stroll along the beach the anchor was raised along with its length of chain - quite an effort by hand. With a light wind we ghosted along in the calm weather with many other boats criss-crossing around the Maddalena Islands having to tack to give way to boats with priority good fun at 2 knots. We then turned and headed across and down, past the tip of the Golfo di Arzachena in search of Forte Cappellini. The familiar shape of the Napoleonic forte appeared on the headland and we passed close by rekindling happy memories and a rather odd feeling with all the time and life’s events passed in the intervening years. Jeff who we had come to visit previously had visited us on his return to Sardegna the following year and we had our honeymoon in Hawaii for two months in 1990 and he is still in contact now. A little further into the Golfo we found a small Cala for the night and went ashore to visit the Forte but as it was shut up closed any hopes of a brick oven cooked pizza and Friday night beer were dashed, but it was a nice stroll around walking the familiar grounds and small beach closing another chapter in our journey. We celebrated 6 years to the day moving on board Sundowner quietly chilled out with a feeling of contentment.

A nice southerly breeze was blowing in the morning so we motored against it to the southern base of the Golfo to enable us to have a nice sail back up and turn the short distance to Porto Cervo. We were half hoping we might see the hotel where we had blown the money we had saved by camping on the beach instead of paying camping fees for 3 weeks but nothing looked familiar. With all sails hoisted the wind promptly died and in hindsight this was the start of a series of misfortunes and challenging experiences.