Sundowner II log - 2005 update 15 - La Linea/Gibraltar to Ibiza

With over a week at anchor in Lalinea waiting for the westerly wind we did suprisingly little, missing the much looked forward to underground fortifications on Gib. Days were spent restocking supplies and trying to resolve Perkins’ by now constant oil leak which we now know the cause of due to the help of Mr Brunton who runs the repair and boat supplies shop next to the marina in Gib, once again although with years of experience he had never come across the problem but knew the cause, a small rubber o ring on the throttle shaft that would take many expensive hours to replace and the postage on just the ring and paper gasket could be as much as £60. So a reasonably successful bodge has been carried out externally with rubber rings washers and bits of string. Hopefuly Colin in Thornham will fly out sometime and over a few beers will do a proper job, he nearly came out after a frantic phone call when Dennis thought he had disabled the throttle linkage internally but it was realised later twas only a loose nut on both.

During our stay the stench of sewage pumping into the bay was only matched in annoyance by the arrival of our first mossie invasion, unlike the noisy british version these are small and silent but more deadly. We did manage a run ashore with Erwan, chaperoning the dingy from bar to bar into the early hours of the morning which was quite funny.

With a long leg to our next stop it meant an overnight passage so after checking in and refueling in Gib we left only to return after an hours run when we met large seas caused by the wind over tide normally we all would have carried on but Erwan’s arm signals indicating it will be alright outside past the rock were mistaken as turn back. Any excuse for an anchorage party.

Sundowner, Little Fish and Taulua all left with the sun rise next morning, well Sundowner eventually left, no need to act too keen. We now have fresh yoghurt in the morning courtesy of Simon and Orit on Taulua they gave a piece of culture they call Jed with a bit of care and devotion should survive for a long while yet theirs having travelled to many a foriegn land over the years and also depositing its offspring.

After negotiating the tricky exit around the rock of Gibraltar we all headed for Motril, Little Fish struggling a bit with the light following wind. It was a good sail for the catamerans until nearly midnight when the wind died and after a few hours of fruitless struggle it was decide to motor the last ten miles whereupon Little Fish’s engine stopped we returned and for the first time we we towed a boat which was succesful right into the harbour where we rafted up and motored to the anchorage. It was nice to swim in clean water and wash the La Linea grime from Sundowner. We saw our first turtle wallowing along and also a large pod of dolphins that visited a couple of times doing their usual play stuff. We are not Dennis’ impersonation of a dancing surfer on deck to the beach boys in a mickey take at Erwan following a couple of boat lengths behind. We met a French guy today, Sebastien, who had just taken 6 days to travel from our destination Ibiza but as he only sails and sleeps when there is no wind it was understandable. It had been in our mind to do a similar trip with our experiences of the south Spanish coast so far not being too happy, also the three weeks spent isolated on Culatra proved we could cope on board for a fairly long period of time. But with good people on board our companion boats to travel with it was decided three legs and two stops would be ideal. We are going to try a new watch system we have devised for the two of us which we hope will ease the tiredness on the longer legs. It is called odds and evens whereby one person gets half an hours rest in the odd hours and the other in the even numbered hours half an hour normally being enough just to get 10-20 mins shut eye and chilllout and after 1 ½ hours at the helm a break keeps you alert.

It is ok making plans but sometimes things just conspire against you and mess up everything, it all started well enough towing Little Fish out 4miles in search of wind and Taulua following shortly after. Again with the wind behind we had a good sail with all sails hoisted gybing (changihg the position of the sails with the wind behind) down the course, sadly, although Little Fish being an excellent up wind sailing boat she will not perform in light following winds and we could hear Erwan say over the radio farewell to Taulua for now and headed inland in the early evening. We were out of range to wish him well but we are pretty sure he’ll turn up sometime.

It was then that things started to go pear shaped with the light winds changing direction continuously and then none at all as we drifted through the night but Taulua being narrowly missed by a large but observant cargo vessel that slowed to avoid them at 8 in the morning we were actually sailing again albeit in the wrong direction with Sandra enjoying the sailing at the helm Dennis tried to get his head down as it had been a long night when out of nowhere the wind increased and genoa and mainsails were dropped - perfect timing as the wind increased to a near gale. We quite often carry the storm sail ready for use so it was hoisted and we sat out the storm as the seas increased finally using the engine to manouvre into the waves. Catamarans with their high freeboard (sides) are prone to locking beam (side) onto the wind and waves. As the wind slowly decreased a small bit of genoa was unfurled to progress further on our way. The wind then went back to variables and nothings so it would be another night out to sea until in a particularly hot calm patch Sandra noticed an anchorage on the chart 3 miles away off a beach where we gratefully dropped the anchor and swam washing away our worries. With the Cabo da Gata still to encounter before the longish leg to Cartagena it was a nice welcome vodka, glass of wine, salad meal and early night, but not before doing battle with a small swarm of biting fruit flies that have appeared from the bananas. As we lay our exhausted heads the wind, for a final piss take, blew strongly from the west - perfect for a night passage to the east. At 12:30 Sandra was awoken by strong winds from the south and by 1:30 we were sat having a cup of tea being swept with near gale force winds from the west with the sets of very large swell lifting and rolling inshore, we could see Simon in his cockpit only 30 or so metres away on anchor watch. By 2:30 the winds decreased and Simon and Orit up-anchored which was rather difficult in the swell and headed for open sea as we had another cup of tea. At 3:30 the wind strengthened from the north and with lightening in the hills there was just enough time for another cup of tea before Sundowner up-anchored and motored away into the dark. Our goal now was just to round the cape even though the wind was good the sea wasn’t and with the aid of the current covered an excellent 13 miles in 2 ½ hours averaging just over 5 knots which after the last few trips was miraculous and as the sun came up we tore along the coast with a full genoa aiding Perkins as we rode on top of the large waves sometimes for a fair number of seconds due to our speed, at times reaching 6 knots, matching the pace of the waves. It was a wonderful feeling as we made our waypoint at the beautiful cape at eleven o’clock in the monring - 32 miles in 5 ½ hours. As we turned onto our course inevitably the wind headed us but after a while with a slight change in the strength and course of the wind it was decided the 75 miles to Cartagena would be too much to expect from Perkins and ourselves so the sails were hoisted and we made good speed on a course to somewhere up the coast to anchor and rest. Rest was what Dennis was trying to get to do when again as he put his head down and settled the wind dropped to next to nothing from behind the genoa was furled again, the ropes by now showing great signs of wear due to all their labour. It was nice to motor along the coast of the Costa Blanca with none of the usual mist shrouding the mountains and the jurassic looking hills. We even had time to wash the sahara muddy dust from the decks en route. By 8 o’clock we were anchored in the corner of the harbour at Garrucha. A little tight for space but will do for a few hours until we left at 3 the next morning. The holding wasn’t particularly good but a pile of extra chain held us. Wherever it is it’s a nice looking place and would be worth a longer visit and the harbour is only open to seas and weather from the south. As we tucked into our excellent pizza and chips eating out in the cockpit for the first time for ages not something we tend to do a lot of but it was nice in the surroundings. We then looked up in total horror and disbelief as the boat swung round facing the entrance and the strong wind coming from the south swinging us only a few metres from the rocky harbour edge - typical, but we still took time to finish the meal. After up-anchoring we tied up to the fuel pontoon and as it was now dark thought we’d fill our water tanks and when tasting the water it was well hot coming out of the hose pipe so it was out with the soap and beautiful hot showers were had in the cockpit - first freshwater ones since Cadiz which was a while back (forgot we did sneak into the marina in Gibraltar for a free one too one day!) It was as Dennis was taking his that Ron (Scotland) and Brit (Finland) (she’s not really called Brit but she did look remarkably like a young version of Brit Eckland she’s really from Finland but at first or 10th glance Bristol came to mind) turned up being from the other boat on the fuel pontoon flying a Guernsey flag, small world, Ron having bought and lived on his boat in Guernsey 9 years previous and had just arrived from Ibiza having lived there for 2 years. He informed us over a glass of wine that a large boat was due to tie up and re-fuel at Garrucha sometime. We had to break up the party when a marina guy came to ask us to re-anchor which we did more in the middle of the harbour than before.

Rested and with full water tanks and solar shower we left for Cartagena just before six and as the sun rose bringing with it some strong wind which was perfect as we had been playing and trimming the sails as we motored along and were ready and sped off motor sailing and in time even stopping the engine also overtaking a nearby trawling fishing boat, with the wind peaking at 20 knots we were past reefing speed but with speeds of six knots and more it was too much fun even in the growing seas and after an hour we crossed ahead of the trawler who's best efforts to impede us failed.

Naturally it was then that the wind came to a complete and abrupt stop. On the topic of fishermen Ron told us the only reason he was in Garrucha was because his engine had broken down and Garrucha being the nearest port of refuge. It was when he became becalmed five miles offshore numerous fishing boats made as if to run him down only to veer off at the last moment only meters away. lt does ask the question why? Do they think the seas are theirs alone raping and depleting fish stocks, trawling destroying habitats and drowning fellow mammals in their blankets of death? I wonder what they do for their pastimes sculpture, music, dancing? Or just enjoy slowly drowning kittens.

After over two thirds of the trip the wind picked up from the southwest so we changed course to clear and round Cape Palos adding another 16 miles 4 hours to our trip even with the seas beam on the side the speed steadied at 6 knots over ground Perkins should have been given a rest but it was now a battle between us and the elements and whatever karma was conspiring against us the challenge had been taken up, no doubt we wouldn’t have the final word but it was time to go for it. Skipping through the large troughs we passed Cartagena which didn't look too inviting with it's industrial complexes and the large seas heading straight at it and the barren haunting hills surrounding and overlooking it, nice earthy colours though. The landscape looked even more daunting at we neared the cape crossing the shallow fishing area which increased the size of the sea's until we could finally turn to pass through the narrow one mile passage between the cape and the small rock island and with the wind, huge waves, Perkins and reefed genoa Sundowner powered past and through onwards to the longed for anchorage and rest. Another couple of hours later found us entering through the breakwater but the area was now land filled and the narrow passage led only to a marina with a low bridge that you had to radio through to be raised. So it was about turn and head for Torrevieja another four hours up the coast making an eleven o'clock landfall in the dark. Feeling pretty tired and despondent we cleared the entrance turning north we then noticed a small bay behind the marina and housing complex with some motor boats at anchor looking too good to be true we entered and found water 2-3meters deep confirmed by the chart the anchor was set in full view through the clear shallow still water the tall buildings giving total protection from the winds behind. After a couple welcome vodkas and bit of work on the now problematic roller reefing it was chill, meal and sleep.

With a bit of a late start, after repeatedly resetting the snooze button, on waking it was decided Ibiza would be cool traveling overnight instead of two 75 mile trips via Cabo San Antonio, Denia. On checking the books it would also save us 20miles and is a recognized crossing route of passage. We then up anchored after a bit of attention to Perkins and with a steady breeze from the west a reef in the genoa to stop the flapping in the light breeze we headed offshore a mere 130 miles of sea to cross we marvelled as the sun rose dead ahead 36 hours to paradise and relaxing in the sun beautiful islands, beautiful people, lazy beaches and a few drinking establishments.

The wind then increased and went dead ahead the wind indicator pointing to show us the way - who needs a compass. Poor Perkins we do worry but at least the sea was smooth. There was a lot of large cargo traffic and fishing vessels to avoid but with a regular change in music and the sun shining it was very pleasant, Sandra even managed to do some washing which when hung out wet was dry in an hour or so. After an eight hour shift observing the auto helm and engine it was time for Dennis to take a break and rest after a short read even managed to fall asleep, only to be woken five minutes later by a small reduction in the engine revs after a bit of leaping around checking Perkins, lifting floorboards, checking hydraulic drives and shafts, reversing the engine and hanging off the sides to check for debris around the props the fuel filter was checked and it was noticed the fuel tank was nearly empty and as there wasn’t any fuel in the bilges there was only one conclusion we had used it all. So it was out with the German can the sails having been already hoisted and course changed to accommodate the wind before the engine was stopped and we were now traveling at a slow 2 knots north of Ibiza in the general direction if nothing else and if we needed it the 20 litres added to the tank would give another 80miles/20hours, sludge from the tank with holding. And make of this what you want but it was while filling the tank a beautiful small turtle drifted past flapping and waving, and with a final slow wave the wind increased to a steady 15 knots and moved around to 60 degrees from ahead putting us back on course giving us an average speed of 5 knots under perfect sail trim never before have all the sail trim indicator tail tails been in perfect unison with the wind and it stayed that way for the further 80miles..........
all the way to the sandy anchorage Salinas on the beautiful party island of Ibiza.

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