Sundowner II log – 2004 update 7- La Coruna to Portugal – Povoa de Varzim

Tuesday 14th September 2004
An early rise to persistent rain and we were off, up the ria the swell increasing as we progressed. It was forecast as a height of 3 to 4 metres so we weren’t that surprised and had the bolt hole of La Coruna if it was too much. With the customary headwind we fought the huge lumps of sea, sometimes coming to a near stop and water washing over the foredeck. A turn into La Coruna looked far too dangerous with the swell on the beam so we headed out hoping for an easier ride in deeper water, our new heading taking us off the waves a little and not slamming into them. An uncomfortable few hours were spent and poor Perkins doing his best. We then had to round Islas Sisargas and turn south west with some awesome seas we barely made 1 knot with some large fishing vessels close by looking pretty insignificant in the large sea and going out of site even when only a few hundred metres away. It was then decision time. Turn slightly off the waves out to sea for a night of not much fun or turn down the coast towards our destination of Ria de Corme y Lage at 220 degrees being impossible as the seas would once again have been on our side – beam on with our course south west and the wind north west, 235 degrees would take us to the next port of Ria de Camarinas which was our destination for the next day - 25 miles and 5 hours further on. As we cleared the point of the Islands the genoa was hoisted, shortened with 2 reefs and then the fun began as we shot up to 7 ½ knots down the swell and 4 ½ knots up, turning onto our course in between when possible. Amazingly we kept the course with a little help from the wind pushing us in the right direction this being leeway which we don’t normally have too much of due to our weight – being rather overloaded. Improvising as we steamed down the coast totally focused on the movement and timing of the seas Perkins purring away relishing the help of the small sail. The forecast had predicted a lessening of the wave height and after 10 hours the seas, though large, smoothed and separated wider. The cape appeared which hid our refuge of Ria de Camarinas and with the course still hard to keep before the turn onto the transit a very kind large fishing vessel decided to slowly cross our bows forcing us to head back into the wind and waves. Eventually we managed to turn and let the large lumps come from behind on our stern. Although you try not to you just have to look behind and there it is a beautiful patch of green/turquoise breaking water on top of the tall sea and as we were heading east the sun going down in the west shone through illuminating the liquid a line of beauty you see in an old oil painting the rest of the picture has faded into mucky browns and dark blue but the green shone through. The same was happening as the waves crashed upon the sandbank to port of our transit. Rightly so Ria de Camarinas is described as the most beautiful ria on this coast. Unsure whether we were anchoring or not we were welcomed with a sign from the Capitan to slip into a most welcome pontoon. Needless to say the vodka came out which we shared with a remarkable lad from Holland in the next berth. Only 18 he has taken a year out and sailing from Brest to the Med and onto Greece under sail only, in a small 22 ft boat. It just goes to show that you can have too much information and then you would not do or go anywhere because later after a visit to the bar we returned to Sundowner and he pointed out from our travel book of Spain how the coast from La Coruna to Finisterre is the fierce coast where many fisherman are drowned each year often when trying to make the difficult harbours strung along the coast so it is called Costa da Morte – (Cost de la Morte) oops.
The next day was spent chilling out and taking a long walk around the coast with Ewoud who later came aboard for pizza. A Danish boat arrived after spending 6 days crossing from Falmouth. He liked England but couldn’t believe the cost even being charged £10 to drop his anchor. Johnny has similar tales . We left the next day with a wave to Ewoud motoring again on a smooth sea we passed 2 ½ miles off Finisterre bathed in sunlight as we headed south accompanied by more dolphins showing off their synchronised ballet of greeting. As we entered the ria the wind came so all sails were hoisted it soon died to a few knots so all sails were pulled back in, the cruising chute hoisted and we had a glorious 2 knot 3 hour sail to the top of the ria. With the ground in the anchorages mostly stone we tied up in the marina and settled for the night not even going into town just a single beer in the marina club - south again tomorrow. There was one bizarre incident when following a yacht further ahead that had left just before us. A fishing boat turned towards him making him change course twice, which was rather odd. A bit later the same fishing vessel a little ahead changed onto a collision course with us, I normally try to keep a steady coarse to avoid confusion and with his erratic behaviour I had no idea where to head so it was bluff time. I was sure there was someone at the helm as an autopilot couldn’t keep those sort of courses and at the last moment he sharply turned no less than a100 meters off, the two men looking rather sheepish at the back well sorry to have spoilt your fun but ‘Bertie you obviously haven’t heard of the Stretford Enders have you’.
17th September 2004
Another windless morning spent motoring, we could have called into another ria but decided it was time to move on to our last Spanish port of Bayona and hope there would be an increase in wind. As we headed on our course to Bayona Dennis texted Johnny and Anna and they were at the Islas Cies and said why don’t we call for a pit stop so being as we were coincidently at that moment in the perfect position we changed course and a few hours later were waving as we pulled into the anchorage behind the islands. Johnny came over in his water taxi and took us ashore and we walked along the beautiful beach to the bar with the city of Vigo spread large and impressive within it’s ria across the water as we shared a glass and welcome conversation on this little bit of paradise. A great evening was spent aboard Balder with a spectacular sunset, which nearly turned into sunrise as the spirits flowed.
18th September 2004
The wind arrived in the morning and ignoring the hangover the anchor was lifted and sails hoisted at last we would be sailing and with a wave to Balder we left and once in clear water the wind died as we then passed through between the islands in pretty rough and strong currents observing the numerous local fishermen in small boats rowing as they fished only meters from the foam washed rocky shoreline - southward bound again. The dolphins paid a few visits to say hello, Balder also passed and later radioed on the vhf to warn us of the large amount of pot buoys and net markers ahead. After a long passage dodging the litter of pots and at times still impressive swell we entered the harbour of Povoa de Vazim as the sun went down behind us. The area looking a bit barren as we approached the yacht club we wondered as to how good a place it was going to be and were pleasantly surprised with the friendly atmosphere with us all looking and feeling rather shabby after the last couple of days. With Porto, the favourite local football team, on the TV in the background Dennis after a few beers did what comes naturally and cheered the action to the surprise of the owner Eduardo who had never met a sailor who enjoyed football so much. Well with Utd v Liverpool live the next evening things could get a bit lively …as they did to the amusement of the locals. The guide book had explained how the Portuguese people frown upon loud and boisterous behaviour a theory totally rebuked by Eduardo who can now recite many a song from the Stretford End Tier 2/ K Stand although often the words are changed to the detriment of Benfica! With an inexpensive sheltered Marina, friendly locals and excellent weather we had the perfect spot for the visit of Seb and Lucy.
Tuesday 21st September/Sunday 3rd October 2004
The good weather continued most days reaching 30 degrees and was made the most of with trips to Porto and the beach playing in the large surf. With a large multinational community now in residence and the arrival of Ewoud one evening we had a splendid beach party, Eduardo was particularly pleased with the happy trade in food and spirits. Seb and Lucy left with the hope to meet up in the New Year somewhere south. The evening of the 30th was spent celebrating our being five years aboard Sundowner and the next morning we all took part in a one paddle dingy race. Ewoud and Roelof then left and Alex from Double You flew home for a week while his mother flew in to be with his father Baz. As Seb said on his last day the weather had gone a bit Pearl Harbour (a nip in the air) and as the windows in the morning are starting to drip it will be a week of reorganising, route planning then off again. With not so many places to stop our habit of not putting our destination in our log until we arrive will have to change. Our original plan of wintering for a few months in one place may also change and with a few weather windows we may be able to carry on – but who knows we may make a visit home by train re-tracing our course or find some work to replenish our funds but most of all we must resist the temptation to turn west.