Sundowner II log – 2004 update 3- Audierne to Arcachon

Here we are, 2 ½ weeks later nearing the Spanish coast. We are at present waiting for the weather on a borrowed buoy in the Arcachon Basin, which is really only accessible in August because it is flanked by firing ranges. Last time we had time and access to the website was in Audierne.
From Audierne to Iles de Glenan was a brilliant sail downwind with poled out genoa and storm sail (acting as a staysail) bits of string, rollers and halyards that we didn’t know what to do with now have jobs. Only spoilt by having to pull all sails in and motor due to excessive swell and wind when approaching the islands - sailing dead downwind is the most dangerous point of sail. We were amazed at the amount of boats anchored and moored and then realised it was August – holiday time. Tried to find a spot near the beach to dry out but in unfamiliar waters it was too risky and luckily we found a spare mooring buoy. A good night’s rest then off to Belle Ile but not before being charged 9 euros for the buoy – which is fair enough after viewing the yacht that was on it’s side on the rocks nearby – probably left over from previous storm waiting for the next spring tide to float again. We would have liked Baloo the Bee, who had stayed the night, to contribute too but he buzzed off after eating our honey! Baloo had joined us on the last leg of the journey and as the sun went down he got cold and fell asleep on the shroud (the wire which supports the mast). Dennis made a small tent to protect him out of a dry chamois and clothes pegs. In the morning even with the sun out he didn’t look like he would survive so we offered him a teaspoon of Breton Cider Honey, which he ate with gusto. After an hour or so he did a couple of circles of the sails and mast, not sure if this was to get his orientation or the effects of the cider, and buzzed off – he was rather a large bee. (‘Do you like the taste of honey – isn’t it better without the bees ‘ Johnny Lydon)
Another good day’s sailing downwind to Belle Ile – this time with cruising chute - the larger very light sail which gives us more speed when there‘s not much wind. It’s also brightly coloured which is nice! We headed for the secondary port of Sauzon because there would be an opportunity to anchor here if it was full – which looked highly likely when we arrived with a gaggle of masts and boats rafted up and anchored. We went straight for the entrance and were greeted by the surfing rib driver and because of our shallow draft we were allowed to proceed straight in (it is a harbour that completely dries at low tide). We are obviously not as fluent in French as we supposed as we motored into the wrong berthing channel and immediately grounded on the mud – much to the amusement of the locals – we laughed too. Within minutes we were off and berthed correctly in between 8 & 9 – 4 buoys one in each corner. Had a beautiful evening sat in the cockpit drinking and listening to the jazz bank playing on the quayside – it really is a lovely place, We were surprised to discover that we had to pay half as much again as we are multicocqued – which is funny because Dennis had never noticed! It is getting rather tedious now to be charged a further 2 euros each for a shower (as it turned out this was the last time).
We motored again after a good forecast of north west 3 to 4 turned into easterly 0 to 1 so instead of heading south for 24 hours we changed course to Pouliguen. Had a great stay in Sauzon once again too much to see and not enough time but we needed a good rest after 2 days of downwind sailing – a bit hairy at times a lot learnt though. We repaired the broken clamp on the boom and taped the rips in the cruising chute. It was a nice bus ride to the bigger nearby town of Palais to get the parts. On our way for pizza in the evening we were invited aboard Steel Band by Christian – mind you putting a card on his stepladder in the morning after seeing his Hawaii YC on his stern helped. Steel Band is probably the most sea worthy and well equipped boat we have seen and can understand how he has cruised for over 20 years especially around the coral islands of Hawaii and Tahiti shame there was not enough time to ask the thousands of questions in our heads but it would have been pushing the invite of friendship too far but we have a feeling that our paths may cross again one day. We also had the pleasure of meeting Sophie, a true-life spirit lady. If she had met us earlier she would have shown us the island as only a true local can – (local, well, just returned home after many years away mainly owning a restaurant in Australia teaching the Aussies how to eat and cook, strange I remember reading how a French captain had found Australia years before Captain Cook but drowned on the way home unable to claim it for France – what a different place it could have been!) Sat with the motor drumming makes you think another day wouldn’t have harmed especially as we could have moved up river and anchored for 6.50 Euro instead of the 14.00 we paid in the moorings. Funny thing is they then charge you 2 Euro each for a basic warm shower! It’s only Wednesday and we’re into next week’s money already so it will be anchoring for free at every opportunity. We eventually got our pizza and it was the biggest we have ever had – pizza emporter - eaten on board.
We arrived in the bay of Pouliguen early evening, unsure of where to anchor as it was a lot larger than we had imagined. It is actually one on the biggest, if not the biggest, beach in Europe. So with co-ordinates from chart and GPS we dropped anchor and spent a very pleasant evening taking marks from the lights on the numerous large buildings along the sea front to check that our position did not alter. We have gained confidence in our anchoring but ‘shit happens’.
Sometimes anchoring for free has its costs as we found out at Ile de Noirmoutier. After a good run from Pouliguen and a couple of hours under cruising chute on the approach we entered the buoyed channel to pass under the bridge and into the bay. The effect of the wind over out going tide was quite uncomfortable and dodging the large patches of weed and numerous incoming ferries made it more difficult so the sails had to be hoisted and we goose-winged under motor into the bay. Then upon taking down the sails to anchor the same tide tried to push us upon 2 wrecks in the buoyed area, we just managed to re-hoist the genoa and ran clear. After anchoring the props had to be cleared of the harvest of weed, which meant an early bath for Dennis, followed by a cold solar shower. The journey from Pouliguen wasn’t uneventful as we had an encounter with a large trawler which we were passing ahead of only at the last minute having to pass astern and a further couple of miles to be sure to avoid any following nets or lines. Another good time to change the alternator belt.
It was a bit of a shame, as we headed for Les Sables D’Olonne, the home of the Vendee Globe round the world yacht race, that we had to motor all the way – 10 hours. It’s getting very hot now. With our limited experience we obviously were not looking forward to marina manoeuvring and after successfully tying up and checking in with the Capitainere I think the fear factor took hold and, under pressure, touched the boat next to our allotted berth with our flagpole – due to underestimating the strength of the wind and said nerves. It might not sound a lot but confidence is everything. Apology accepted and we settled for a couple of days longer than expected but with the heat the jobs to be done took longer than usual – shopping, laundry and fantastic cold Guinness! Our large Guernsey Brewery flag now makes a fine bimini (sun shade) and we also have an excellent home made mosquito net hatch cover. In the bar we used a couple of times the owner showed us a framed letter from his American friend who had been lost at sea – this was the last letter he wrote. We refuelled before leaving and had an embarrassing coming together with a small local fishing boat as we left – he was ok about it, no damage done (except bruises to Sandra’s thumb which she tried to use as a fender!) and he explained to us how the tide and ground underneath forces you towards the wall. Funnily enough the French people on the quayside didn’t seem that bothered – as if it happens all the time. We had visits from a couple of very friendly people – one being a retired army colonel and who was most pleasant and the other Chris aboard Lazy Days who we hope to meet again later on our travels. Upon setting of we nearly anchored opposite the beach, which had been one of our intentions anyway, to sit out the incoming rain clouds and bad weather, but with wet weather gear on we headed of for Ile de Re where we picked up a waiting buoy and spent a couple of hours during the night perfecting a method to stop said buoy from hitting the bows, hulls and platform. This method involved, very successfully, using a fender on the bow roller – the problem was caused by a perfect combination of tide and wind in opposite directions making us over run the buoy and in the dark we could see from the nearby yachts that we were not the only ones with the same problem. The next day we motored under another bridge and had a couple of hour’s perfect sailing to St Denis, Ile D’Oleron. Whilst sailing we received a text message from Seb, our baby boy in Manchester, to say he was about to meet the King of the Stretford End – Denis Law – at his bookshop. Dennis will be a proud owner of a signed T Shirt from the man himself. We spent another night on a waiting buoy where we saw our second Heavenly Twins of the trip entering the harbour – it was tempting to row ashore but luckily we didn’t as the weather turned to a small storm and it got pretty rough. Next day we motored the 51 mile to Royan where there is a 3 hour buoyed channel to follow. We had studied the charts and there looked to be a magnificent uncharted sandy bay in which we had visions of drying out – much like Rotheneuf – only to find it looking pretty risky and overpopulated so we set off for the marina instead, which wasn’t our preferred choice due to previous experiences and cost. We were met by another friendly rib driver who gave us a berth number, which turned out to be in amongst all the local small boats on the end of a hammerhead pontoon. He confirmed that we were in the right position when he came to collect our dues – which half surprised us! Having taken our first steps on land for 2 nights we found a bar in the lovely quayside area, had a walk on the beach and then found another bar with Sundowner in view. It would have been so easy to stay longer in this lovely port but after a walk on another beach and a coffee at the café we set of for our overnight journey to Arcachon.
After the most horrendous wind over tide in the south passage, where the boat was almost physically stopped on one wave (it is on par with the Little Russell back home) we had 10 hours of magic sailing as we only had to average 3.6 knots to time our arrival right. We had to head back up North at one stage in the early hours of the morning to avoid 2 flashing yellow lights obstruction markers which were impersonating pair trawlers. Not wishing to upset the Biscay Gods – but they were very kind to us and the night passed under a half moon star lit sky with just the odd few larger Atlantic swells looming out of the darkness lifting the boat just to remind you exactly where you were – which was not only one of the most notorious sea waters of the world but we were heading towards Spain so we put Elton John, Daniel, on the speakers. Along with a couple of other yachts, after over 20 hours, we had timed our arrival perfectly. The 100 metre high sand dune at the entrance was quite impressive along with the breaking seas either side of the entrance channel. With no idea where to go, the overcrowded definitely not an option, we headed north through the channels across the basin to a little port called Betye where, with tide running out a decision had to be made, and so Dennis let Sundowner gently settle onto the ground, just a little close to a swinging motor boat whose occupants soon arrived and seemed to appreciate the 2 fenders attached to our rudder in case the wind changed. We slept. Later the couple returned and took us to the harbour suggesting that we could tie against the wall which we declined, but he did show us on the chart a channel which doesn’t dry. After 2 days chancing our luck anchored and drying on the beach with the lowering neap tides which could have left us high and dry for 10 days before the next high spring tides we are waiting as we said earlier for the weather for the run down to Hendaye Plage as the books say you should not leave on a South West with a 1 metre swell – it is presently South West with a 2 metre swell! Sometimes it is nice to be forced to slow down and we have enjoyed it here immensely. We saw the passing tropical storm Alex and also a fantastic anvil thundercloud and to top it off some real fireworks – a display either side of the basin which is 8 miles wide. A little bit of music and wine also helped. We also found a marvellous delicatessen in our hour of need to which we returned yesterday, rowing ashore to collect some eggs. Sandra is perfecting her gallette making skills which are turning out quite successful – first sampled back in Granville nearly 670 miles ago – 729 since Beaucette and including our return to England a total of 1031 miles since March.