Sundowner II log – 2004 update


Sorry about the lack of updates but once the computer is switched on it starts to play lots of tricks keeping us from doing anything but the log. We bought post cards the other day – much easier! We are now in Paimol preparing to leave tomorrow Saturday 10th July, after a week sheltering from yet another storm. No complaints though, there can’t be much more pleasant places. Saw some old friends and did some more maintenance on the boat.
23rd May 2004
After leaving Chichester Harbour we had to return to Guernsey for our Co-op Divi, new props and replacement windows (winter project). Our 3 day stop over turned into 3 weeks due to technical hitches and leaving parties which turned into f**k off parties! A day was spent on Shell Beach Herm collecting our wits and a couple of Guinness in the Mermaid and back to St Peter Port through the Aligande Passsage for the collection of the windows and off in the morning. (Thanks Adie and Rob from Guernsey Sheet Metal).
16th June 2004
We then stayed in another favourite haunt, Gorey Harbour Jersey, for a couple of days. Our next stop was intended to be Rotten Eggs a big enclosed sandy bay that dries but due to our best sail ever, sometimes over 6 knots, we were 2 hours early and couldn’t make the entrance due to the strong current, so it was 3 hours due east to Granville. A bit weary we managed to raft against a large motor boat. It was then we met our new friends Mark and Clive on Simba from Jersey. It was so funny as we waited to take his lines, Clive who was on his first trip and on the bow, when asked if he had any lines, searched his pockets for bits of string and then shouted back to Mark “ have we got any rope?”. We left them at the casino about 3.30 the next morning - not quite 24 hours. We then proceeded to have a good day in their company on the Saturday and we all left Sunday.
20th June 2004
We then headed for Iles Chausey with a bit of trepidation as we had only ever passed them from a distance in the past and they looked quite foreboding, also fore and aft mooring in a small crowded area would be fun. As it turned out, although busy, the approach was well marked and we tied to a lonely buoy at the far end and rowed ashore to the pub where within 3 minutes we had met Paul who is local and had just completed building his new boat ( www.eventail.info ) ready to sail to the festival in Brest. With it now quiet we decided to pick up another buoy to complete the fore and aft method mentioned before. I am still not sure if the looks of the half dozen faces stood in the cockpit opposite were shock, intrigue or just mesmerized as for well over half an hour this engleeshe man wrestled with ropes, buoys, rubber dingy and more ropes in a very very strong tide. We enjoyed a couple of nights but reluctantly had to move on due to a storm coming Wednesday.
22nd June 2004
We then headed for Rotten Eggs (Rotheneuf) just a short trip of 15 miles south. Well sometimes it’s not weed around the props but rough seas shaking up a not so full fuel tank which can cause heart and engine stopping moments – what a way to spend our 1000th mile travelled together aboard Sundowner. Again with a lot of trepidation we approached the passage into Rotten Eggs - we had seen how intimidating it was during our last failed attempt. But, as with most things, a bit of care, planning, and focus enabled us to enter the bay safely through the narrow rock strewn entrance. And what a lovely bay it is, a bit busier with local boats and houses than described by the customs man at Gorey, but sheltered all the same. Next thing anchoring – not something we have done a lot of. It’s quite easy when you just drive up onto Shell Beach, wait until the sea leaves, jump off the boat and set the anchors…which is exactly what we did. The storm came the next day, as predicted, from the west which was good in so far as we were protected a bit from some of the wind, but the sea came in through the entrance from the north. A few days were spent drying and re-floating and at times conditions were a bit violent but the windsurfers enjoyed the combination of wind and waves in a safe secluded bay. One night, as we wrestled with the anchors, slamming in the wind and waves, a yacht gracefully floated a few feet past and pitched onto the beach where a while later she unfurled her genoa and for a bit we thought she might sail herself off, out of the surf, it was a gutsy effort to no avail. There was a tang of guilt but it was far too dangerous just to inflate the dingy, let alone launch it. A few phone calls to St Malo, Guernsey and the local police proved fruitless. At least this being the top of the spring tide meant the water would not reach it in the morning, which proved the case.
25th June 2004
Time to move on again, around the corner to St Malo which we have been looking forward to visiting for years, with all it’s maritime history and architecture. After a few navigational lessons and Condor dodging we docked at the Bas Sablons Marina and went in search of a pizza, not before a small French fishing vessel had squeezed, with our help, into the space (a fender gap either side) next to us – perfecto! We gave them a glass of our arrival vodka and they reciprocated with whisky, a good idiot, playschool, sign language conversation followed and the rather rough, intimidating fisherman showed us his teddy bear tattoo on his forearm! All smiles as we said goodbye as they were leaving at 7.00 the next morning (they left at 8.30). We found our pizza and a nice fisherman’s bar and after a quite remarkable 6.30 rise, we spent Saturday seeing the sights and sounds of St Malo and St Servan. We had to return by Condor to Guernsey on Sunday for an appointment on Monday. We arrived, went to the pub to get a lift which took us to Nick and Liz's Wedding Barbeque and spent all evening with friends at Beaucette – we like Guernsey! We returned for a couple of nights in St Malo and managed to get fuel across at Dinard where a local boatowner (who spends 2 months every summer cruising the area with,at times, his 14 grandchildren)showed us on the chart a sheltered anchorage at Ile d’Hebihens. Once again local knowledge proved correct and reluctantly we had to leave this beautiful spot without a chance to explore as more weather was due from the south west.
1st July 2004
We would have loved to have stayed longer but with the weather and the need to put more miles under our keels, we set of for Dahouet. After a few (9)rather rough miles we turned back and pulled into the shelter of St Cast – 2 miles away. After a fruitless search through hundreds of buoyed boats we picked up what turned out to be the visitors buoy at the end of the harbour wall. We had the good sense to arrive on 1st July which was the first day of their season so we had a free water taxi and showers, the downside being that we had to pay for the mooring! Nice bars, nice people – the French really are happy folk - we chilled out for a few days sheltering from yet another patch of weather and then readied ourselves for setting off for Paimpol. Tomorrow it will be 4 years since leaving Weymouth and then arriving in Guernsey.
4th July 2004
It rained and rained (a good way to quit smoking) and then half way the wind picked up and so we motor sailed sometimes up to 6 knots. And then it blew so we sailed – wet but with the auto helm now working sail trimming was good. Negotiated the passage through but had to anchor due to the tide. We had to anchor in earnest as the wind was well over 20 knots and after a few practice runs amongst the mussel beds we sat out the 5 hours until the tide returned to enter Paimpol. Successfully passaged up to and into the lock (thank you Jason again) luckily on our own. We managed to get a spot against the wall by the village hall where we have happily spent the last week.We haven't wasted our weather bound time we now have a fridge that works, anchor windlass (not worked for 3 years), sealed windows and vent, hot water and shower, descaled heads due to the marvels of effort and white vinegar,3 years of magazines pruned and skipped, and and autohelm (which has never worked) and 2 beaming smiles!
Au Revoir – Cidre calling.